Water table trapped inside a concrete loading bearing wall cavity- that is under a living area 1

[FWika]

Hello all and appreciate any insight and knowledge ahead of your replies.

2 years ago we purchased a 20-year-old Central hole colonial home in New Jersey.
Last eeek we had the flooring replaced in the front of the home, first level.
Upon our contractor removing the old flooring he came upon the two final areas which are two foot by two foot closets that are on both sides of the centered front door, he discovered heavy water and termite damaged underlayment and plywood.
These closets and front door area have an exterior brick facade that is supported by concrete hollow block which go down to the footings 8'.
After termite in spectors as well as Servpro have come here the same consensus is what I discovered which is a heavy amount of humidity being emitted from these hollow cavities.
There's no ventilation anywhere in the concrete block but there is a rising water table specifically on the left side closet Hall which elevates to approximately 10 in of water yet does not rise.
Because of the lack of ventilation this cavity simply leads all the humid damp air which then has attracted the termites to the underside of a habitableliving space plywood.
We have filed an insurance claim though they may not be able to do much they are sending over a structural engineer to ensure that the termites have not caused enough damage to the existing TJI joists.
with the expectation that insurance will not be able to help us that much I'm looking for advice in how these 24x24x96-in cavities can and should be handled.
my Hope was to possibly fill with 3/4-in stone and/or sand and cap off with 4 in of concrete but I worry that the displacement of water will cause the water to enter other areas specifically the foundation wall or our new finish basement.
Another idea I had was to create a ventilation on the exterior of the front patio and cap off the cavity with plastic, metal and finally pressure treated wood layers so that it no longer effects the new plywood and flooring I plan to finish in the closets.

Any other aspects that perhaps I am not considering or how to best address these oddly opened cavities would be greatly appreciated by you fellow folks.

See 3 photos included as a pdf.

 

[oldestguy]

It's a good thing we have other engineers here that know how to correct a problem rather than applying a bandage and hide things as retired13 indicates above. Instead, I'd suggest getting an engineer locally and let him totally examine conditions and then suggest the treatment if any. As it is we surely are missing important info.

 

[r13]

Maybe hire a self insured Amish contractor

 

[FWika]

Reply to oldest guy:
State of US or country? NJ
Do you water the plants outside? Not really . Wife waters flowers in spring only, but those are potted.

Are there weep holes for water to drain from brick siding?
This is actually a point of concern the only weep holes are under the large picturesque transom window which is approximately 12 ft in the air and at the very bottom right above the steel ledge where the brick facade starts throughout the course of the bricks there is no other weep holes.

 

[FWika]

well we did fire an insurance claim and the insurance adjuster did state that he was going to vouch for a structural engineer to come on site that was Friday afternoon so we probably will not receive word until sometime this week my concerns are not everyone will be looking to alleviate the water table trapped in that shaft the basement is finished so it doesn't allow me to get to it and try to relieve any built-up pressure at the foundation walls though they wore waterproof before I began framing last October.


Someone else asked between the height of the rim joist and the mulch beds it's approximately 16 in down from the sill plate to the mulch beds the patios in this neighborhood have had problems before as a few neighbors have stated that they have replaced theirs in recent years due to seepage but their seepage came into the foundation walls and not into these odd cavities.

More and more am attributing it to poor construction standards or practices taken 20 years ago that is leaving an opportunity to water to infiltrate in or around this patio porch

 

[r13]

High ground water should be a local phenomenon, check with your neighbors. Otherwise, your house could be sitting on an aquifer. If the ground water is not getting into the house, I wouldn't do anything beyond water proof the shafts.

 

[FWika]

So, do not fill the shaft as previously noted with aggregate, sand, concrete , valor barrier ?

As I intend to pump out the water one more time I want to still Ensure that there is a water sealant product that can be applied underwater should that water table start rising before the sealant can cure. Any recommendations?

 

[r13]

If the ground water has not yet intrude into your basement, you can leave the shaft unfilled, but find a way to block the humid air from rising, in conjunction with good ventilation. Or you can pour hydraulic concrete to just above the ground water table, and seal the edges after it has cured/dried. I am not aware of any good sealant can be placed pressurized water.

 

[oldestguy]

FWika. If you are going to seal the shaft so to speak, again that a bandage thing. I would go by the recommendations of your consultant. Assuming this is not ground water??? How can you assume that? You may well have a gerund water control system for the basement, but it may not be doing good for the "shaft" Get out your trusty post hole auger with attachments and drill down along side the foundation there. Assuming no ground water then look elsewhere. In particular that brick siding with no weeps sure looks to be likely. But you need to check that. Get out your trusty battery. powered 1/2" drill with a masonry bit. Drill a few weep holes at as low a level as you can. That may well find it saturated. If so, add more weeps. This may not do the trick, but don't stop with investigations BEFORE any permanent fix.

Edit: If you find ground water, check back HERE. YOU MAY BE INSTALLING SOMETHING THAT FAILS IN A YEAR USING YOUR BUILDING CODE. I've seen many a drain code that seems OK, but misses details that are important.

Remember this water likely comes from rainfall. If it has not rained before you drill weep holes, you an duplicate that with a garden hose on the wall outside.

Edit: Thinking about this I find it difficult to see rotted flooring well above the possible interior ground water thing. I suspect more likely from brick siding with no weep holes. I'd check that first (easier than post hole work, HA)

More edit. That closet may or may not be heated in winter. Regardless the interior heating is unlikely to do much closet heating. Knowing that water,will move from warmer to cold zones by vapor, we cannot rule out ground water affecting and rotting that floor. Just another question to look at.

 

[FWika]

I thank you for all the insight and ideas.
I will begin the practical applications myself this week and I will post any new findings.