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Bolts for the nailers.That's a pretty -- atypical detail, and what are those circles for anyway?
Interesting. Yea, they have a 26 and a 210. I'll figure something out. Not mcu load thereDiscontinued product list: HUC28 isn't there as near as I can tell.
It's a 2x10. I have used wood-to-metal screws for this (on my house actually) and it worked quite well. I am cheap and wanted something easy. I think I will stick bolts for this unless you can show me a better way.Somewhere i saw some nifty screws that I thought "stuck" to steel for nailers, maybe another simpson product? What's the nailer for on the web?
I don't see any such restrictions after a quick perusal of Simpson's catalog C-F-2023TECHSUPP.pdf. You can also get them galvanized (TBG). If your steel flange is greater than 1/4" thick (but less than 1/2" thick), you would have to go with the TF screw, which is not available galvanized. Seems a lot easier (and cheaper) to me than bolts. When the flange thickness is 1/2" or greater, I've used welded studs. The contractors I work with prefer welded studs to through bolts because the welding is a fairly routine procedure in a steel shop whereas a through bolt requires more work for the framer in the field.Yup, that is what I was referring to in my previous post. I don't think these are meant for exterior use.
I feel better about bolts in this application.
On a recent job I was thinking the same thing, but the fabricator told me it would be a lot more work for them to fabricate the beams with welded studs versus bolt holes. He mentioned the holes are an automated process for them while welding studs is not. Of course, I imagine this is dependent on the fabrication shop.The contractors I work with prefer welded studs to through bolts because the welding is a fairly routine procedure in a steel shop whereas a through bolt requires more work for the framer in the field.
Certainly they could. i did not design for that additional lateral load but the plan reviewers around here a pretty good about flagging that if the time comes. They can add some bracing then. There are only so many contingencies I am willing to include in my plans.Can they close it off with glass at some point? I was picturing a three season jobby and those all have glass, or could. Exposed to rain isn't quite the same as "wet environment" but i can understand caution or skepticism. But if you're being consistent, then all the connections get those 40 to 60 percent reductions via Cm.
Most of these have at least occasional drying, and aren't saturated. Of course make your own decision on the circumstances. PPT wood is pretty hostile to connection materials, and hangers, too.