stressiterior123...
Technically a plug should be a close match-to, or exceed, the stiffness, strength and HARDNESS of the base material. The plug supports the hole wall from deforming during elastic loading... which is the primary reason open holes develop cracks rapidly.
A less stiff/strong/HARD plug [aluminum in Ti or steel, ~10:16 or ~10:30 stiffness, strength and hardness ratios] will provide very little reaction reaction force [due to lower stiffness] on the hole wall. Not to mention that the lower-strength and softer material could actually be damaged by the harder material [scratched, cut, deformed, etc].
A stiffer plug [Ti or steel in aluminum] provides a stiff/strong/hard static pressure force on the hole wall, preventing any deformation or plug damage.
NOTE.
I have successfully used "net-fit" [Boeing guys: "transition fit"] TENSION RATED low interference-fit fastening systems [PH bolts + washers/nuts or HL Pins and collars] to plug holes in aluminum, Ti, CRES, steel and HRA structures. The idea is to fill the hole tightly... then using the tension pull-up from the head and nut/collar [nut/washer or collar torque-up] to place the fastener head/tail in high static tension, resulting in an additive compression force against the surface material SURROUNDING the hole. OH yeah... cold-working the hole and installing this fastener system really helps to bump-up fatigue durability at these holes [retards crack initiation at the hole wall/lips].
HINT: this "system" really works remarkably well for retarding crack initiation in stop-drilled holes at the ends of cracks.
See NAS618 [Fastener, Recommended Shank, Hole, And Head-To-Shank Fillet Radius Limits For] for "standard" hole-to-fastener net-fit and low-interference fit dimensions.
NOTE: I have used large diameter fasteners [straight or tapered shank] to plug holes in one [outer] layer of a stack-up that was cracked... then drill thru the middle of the remaining smaller Dia hole for installation of a smaller Dia [less stiff shear] fastener thru the total stack-up.
How? The hole is reamed for a tight fit with the humongous fastener; and the fastener shank is cut/milled off so the stub-end will be flush with the opp side of the same layer [IE: opp side of the spar flange or skin, etc]. After reassembly the center hole is then back-drilled thru the remaining original smaller hole [good hole in the mating structure] to establish the thru-hole for the replacement [smaller Dia thru] fastener. The retained fastener head helps prevent the "plug" from "migrating" like a straight-walled headless plug might.
[this makes sense to me... hope it still makes sense to everyone else].
Regards, Wil Taylor