Were the BRs installed by the OEM,or by a mechanic?
IF Installed by the OEM, or per OEM repair data, then there is allowables data available, somehwere.
IF installed by a mechanic NOT using approved data, then beware.
Years ago I was in same boat. Problem is that solid rivets swell and fill the irregular surfaces [steps] in the hole that are created by the dimpling process, locking everything together. BRs will NOT fill these irregular steps in the hole and are essentially loose.
The only way I was able to over-come this issue with an existing hole/dimple [sometimes] was to drill-thru the the stepped hole for a next larger dia [or next learger OS], which straightens-out the hole walls... thes installing a flush shear head [FSH - NAS1097 style] BR**.
There are ways to "work" this problem in new production: IE: drilling [significantly undersize], dimpling [FTH - MS20246 style head] for a smaller rivet; then driling thru the stepped-hole for, and installing, the next larger/next-larger-OS Dia FSH BR.
NOTE.
** I always recommend using high pull-up, bulb-forming aluminum-aluminum BRS where possible, since these are the most ductile for hole filling/shank-swelling.
As-far-as real allowables go, I always just cleared these substitutes with the stress guys who usually hand-waived it becaused dimple-dimple construction was rarely used for primary structure.
NOTE. In-lieu-of dimples, I always preferred using Cherry-Max unisink ["flanged dome head"]: these are highly useful for very thin skins and have avery low external profile. Unisinks were used in many locations on the first non-homebuilt I worked-on: [Ted Smith] Piper Aerostar [ailerons, elevators, flaps, fairings, doors, etc].
Regards, Wil Taylor
Trust - But Verify!
We believe to be true what we prefer to be true.
For those who believe, no proof is required; for those who cannot believe, no proof is possible.