Buring Stainless Plastic Coating On Amada Laser

Question

Buring Stainless Plastic Coating On Amada Laser

ausman (Industrial)

(OP)

19 Oct 15 12:04

thread380-372923: Amada FO3015 Cutting Stainless with Plastic coating

Hi,

About this time last year there was a thread discussing the except same thing I am asking about, an easy & fast way to burn the plastic coating before cutting on an Amada FO.
Rposty was very close to answering the question to my problem, but I don't fully understand if & how he got the pre burn to function.
Can anyone please elaborate if they know about this?

Machine- Amada FO, LC Etc
Control: 160i-L (Non windows based)
Rposty's solution, Change macro M103 to M134
The outcome of this is that the head come does (head purge is eliminated), I can see the etch cutting condition is selected in the head down movement but there is no actual beam out, once the material is sensed (the gap is where it needs to be) it switches straight to the pierce condition, pierces then switches to cutting condition then proceeds to cut.
It would seem that M134 does not function?
Changing the pierce code to 133,134 or 135 does not work on the 160i-L controller. (Only the AMNPC type)
Currently we etch a circle (via the nesting software) over the piece points, it works but is painfully slow.

Hi Rposty, if you read this did you get this M134 burn process working on the 160i-L controller? can you explain it in more detail please?

Any guru's out there proved any input about this?
Thank you.

laserdog (Computer) · Answer 1 · 2015-10-19 14:48:42

I had the same problem before the M134 came out so I would download the program twice and edit the first one. Change all cut conditions to E9 and copy the conditions from E10 to E9 but use less power so you don’t etch the material. Run the first program to cut the vinyl then the second to cut the parts. this takes longer but it works. I’m not sure why the M134 is not working so I will test it on our 3015.

ausman (Industrial) · Answer 2 · 2015-10-20 10:50:30

Thanks Laserdog, I am very keen to know if your FO is working with the M134 code.

evans1089 (Mechanical) · Answer 3 · 2015-11-17 14:42:55

I've just tried cutting 1mm stainless with the M134 pierce. It didnt seem to change or do anything to the sheet/part.

I can't cut small parts in stainless without the film melting onto the part and leaving a sticky top finish where it should be mirrored.

Any ideas?

LASERNINJA (Mechanical) · Answer 4 · 2015-11-17 22:34:22

Where exactly are you putting the M134? It should be in place of M103.

I am sorry to say, but I think the machines that don't work have an old software version. All the NT machines should have this feature but 160il machines could go either way.

ausman (Industrial) · Answer 5 · 2015-11-18 01:39:29

Hi Laser Ninja,

Thanks for your clarification, I thought that was the case that firmware just did not include the burn function M134 (maybe the newer of the 160i-L controller did? but I thought we had one of the latest revision firmware before 160i-L was discontinued on the FO models)
Our machine is late 2003 Mfg.

Just to confirm we replaced M103 with M134 (no joy)

It's probably the same case with the manual cut function on the 160iL control, it simply does not work (the firmware never allowed for the manual cut function to work)

ausman (Industrial) · Answer 6 · 2015-11-18 02:45:45

Hi Evans1089,

Just my 2 cents on this, it's most likely the M134 will never work.
I have spent countless hours trying to resolve this to get it working, tried alternative ways like trying do the pre burn within sub programs & custom macros.
The head purge was the main problem, I know the time can be reduced but this then introduces more problems when changing assist gas if you reduce the purge time.

With out the ability or knowledge to edit the commands within the macro M103 & M134 i believe it simply can't be done.
just do the pre burn in your nesting software.
3mm dia circle burn on single layer plastic, 5mm circle dia burn on 2 layer plastic, use E10 etching "cutting Data" for the burn settings.

If you do all the burns first then do the cutting it will save you about 5 seconds purge time on each pierce.

Cheers

evans1089 (Mechanical) · Answer 7 · 2015-11-19 11:59:57

We have an engineer coming out today, I'll ask him what he thinks and get back to you all.
Cutting mirror finish stainless with this plastic coating is a nightmare.

ausman (Industrial) · Answer 8 · 2015-11-19 12:15:15

Thanks, I would be interested to know.
Did a job last week, 20 sheets 1mm mirror with double coating.
Had heaps of plastic coating blow ups in the 1st sheet.
5mm pre burns on every pierce point & the rest of the 19 sheets were a dream.

evans1089 (Mechanical) · Answer 9 · 2015-11-19 12:33:10

My issue is the sticky residue it leaves after cutting. With the mirror finish, its a pain to get off!

ausman (Industrial) · Answer 10 · 2015-11-19 12:49:19

I see, I've never seen or heard of a way around that when cutting with laser.

LaserEngine (Industrial) · Answer 11 · 2015-11-19 13:30:37

Try skiping the pierc part, and jump straigth to cutting if you are only cutting thin material. Have worked quite well for us with stainless steel cutting with plastic coating.

laserdog (Computer) · Answer 12 · 2015-11-19 14:55:56

In the past I would run the program with all cuts on E10 first and change the feed so it would cut the plastic but not mark the material. If you try this change all the M103A6 to M103A0 so it will not pierce. After the etch is done run the program that cuts out the parts and see how that looks, it takes longer but it works in a pinch.

Merrill101 (Computer) · Answer 13 · 2015-11-23 14:12:31

I've had success using the pre pierce. I'll set my pre pierce to 105 and use

600w
.1 second
1" nozzle gap.

I have never had an issue.

evans1089 (Mechanical) · Answer 14 · 2015-11-23 15:20:29

I'll take a look at that! Thanks!

The amada engineer said he would recommend a certain plastic coating, however obviously our supplier of steel only uses a certain one, which we have now.

I'll take a look into the pre-pierce.

LASERNINJA (Mechanical) · Answer 15 · 2015-11-24 03:17:47

I have been thinking about it for a while. If you would like to try to upgrade your system software, I will see if I can find the most current for your style machine. Even though I am not 100% sure what that means. I have never seen an OLC I don't know what will happen if we change the software. If your slow and careful we can always get it back.

ausman (Industrial) · Answer 16 · 2015-11-24 04:59:36

Hi Laserninja,

I would certainly try it if you can get the firmware, I thought it would be impossible to get the files. I would greatly appreciate it if you tried.
OLC is Amada's Crossflow resonator (made under license from Mitsubishi) I believe it's almost identical.

ausman (Industrial) · Answer 17 · 2015-11-24 07:30:58

Hi Merrill,

You commented that you have had success with the Pre-pierce, can you please elaborate?
Is this the 160i-L or the AMNC control? If it's the 160i-L i'm going to fall off my chair.
Thank you.

Merrill101 (Computer) · Answer 18 · 2015-11-24 12:41:56

I'm using the AMNC control, sorry I should have been more specific.

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Buring Stainless Plastic Coating On Amada Laser