Wood Beam-Post Intersection 1

[palk7 EIT]

Hi All,

Attached a sketch, where the outer LVL has to be flushed with studs beneath it, so can't have a king stud.

In this scenario does the outer (2)-LVL is to be screwed to the perpendicular (3)-LVL to avoid rotation of (3)-LVL?, but the joists are also tied to it which might help to resist any rotation of that beam.
Also is there any major wrong with this type of connection?
Please suggest if anything has to be looked out here.

Thank you very much

 

[jayrod12]

I don't particularly see an issue with this. Instead of just screws, I'd prefer to connect the 2 ply LVL to the 3 ply LVL with maybe some simpson framing angles to ensure a good connection. I'd also want to ensure the beams are adequately connected to the post.

I assume the top of these beams will have a sheathing applied?

 

[palk7 EIT]

jayrod12

The (3)-LVL will have a 2.5" air gap above it, but the joists will be the ones having continuous sheathing, but the outer LVL sloped (low-slope) will have cont. sheathing on top of it.

For the beams to adequately connected to post, I couldn't see any perfectly fitting column cap for this orientation, so just counting as the beams resting on top of the built-up post for download with nails. But could provide straps for the uplift at the (3)-lvl to built-up post.

 

[dhengr]

Palk7:
Have a fab shop make a couple corner angle/plates, one left and one right hand, for you. These dimensions are approx. to help draw you a word picture, you size it correctly and design it for the screws/nails you are going to use. .125” or 10ga. plate, 6” wide by 18” high. Draw the horiz. and vert. centerlines on the pl. and drill a .5” hole at the center pt. to prevent tearing during forming and cutting. Saw or shear from the right vert. edge and only to the center of the pl. on the mid height center line. Bend that right upper 3”x9” leg out of the page. This upper angle shape fits to the faces of the two LVL beams. The bottom half remains a flat pl. and attaches to the edges of 4 of the studs. Drill holes for your screws or nails as needed. Pay attention to edge distance, spacing and stagger in the hole locations. The studs must be cut very accurately for good beam bearing, this is not a hatchet job. Note this on your drawings and inspect for a good quality bearing fit here.

 

[palk7 EIT]

dhengr

Thank you, I understand the angle plate that your suggesting. This might be senseless question, but could you please explain the advantage of having a cap plate at these location and the downfall of not having them, just to understand their full purpose.
Especially when king stud cant be achieved is this the better way to do or can the LVL's at perpendicular intersection can be connected with hangers to lock them together and strap the studs to LVL as required for uplift forces.

 

[dhengr]

Palk7:
The use of some sort of a bearing pl. is to distribute the bearing load over minor uneven areas or soft spots, so that you can more confidently assume that the bearing areas are 3(1.5x5.5) and 2(1.5x5.5). With a stiffer bearing pl. you can reasonably assume that as the beams deflect a bit, the higher bearing stresses will be (can) moved back away from the very edge of the column member towards their interior. With a column on a sill pl. you can distrib. the col. load to the sill pl. to improve the bearing area for compression perpendicular to the grain, which is usually the controlling design consideration. The compression parallel to the grain, in the column, is usually not a problem, The reason for my last couple sentences in my first post was because, if you look closely out on a job site, you will see that today’s carpenters often do a pretty crappy job of cutting ganged studs to length, so you may be bearing on only two out of three studs if you don’t inspect closely. They think that the only important thing is the number of studs, not good end bearing too. They cut em, they stand em up to nail em, and of course they fit fairly good at the base, but have length gaps at the beam bearing elev. You should strap the two beams together so you get some continuity between the two perpendicular beams/wall planes, and of course as needed for uplift. Screwing (or nailing) into end grain is an inferior connection, although the strength values are better for the LVL materials. Those are pretty big LVL beams so a few nails into the columns is not a sufficient connection btwn. the two.