Continue to Site

Eng-Tips is the largest engineering community on the Internet

Intelligent Work Forums for Engineering Professionals

  • Congratulations waross on being selected by the Eng-Tips community for having the most helpful posts in the forums last week. Way to Go!

well piping 2

Status
Not open for further replies.

Surcharged

Civil/Environmental
Jun 23, 2007
52
I am designing a well house. I will be pumping from a well to a pressure tank. I will have a check valve and a meter. Any reason to have a gate valve too? I am considering one downstream of check valve and meter and upstream of pressure tank. That way I could isolate meter from tank in order to replace meter. Does this sound like the right place to put it? Do I even need a gate valve?
 
Replies continue below

Recommended for you


You can always construct with a minimum of valves, depending on what you will accept as risk and work with running and maintenance.

Depeniding on pressure and size (suction or pressure from well) pump type and tank, and what valves (check and isolating and PSVs) that are already included in tank and pump supply you could discuss following points from tank downstream:

checkvalve for tank
isolating valve for tank
PSV for line, isolating valve for PSV
air inlet/outlet valve (rupture and filling/emptying of pipeline)
isolating valve for air inlet
isolating valves before and after pump
pump PSV if not supplied
isolating valve for well
checkvalve before or after pump as necessary
drainage valve before and/or after pump as necessary
strainer(s) if impurities are possible from well, with drainage or cleaning possibillities.

... but then this is of course the 'full package' for a professional lay-out.

Start with the list and consider what you could be without.

Good luck!

 
From reading your post, it sound like you will be controling the well pump with a pressure switch. I would strongly recommend that you DO NOT putt a valve inbetween the well and switch. First, sooner or later someone is going to close the valve and the switch will tell the pump to run, with nowhere for the water to go. This deadheads the pump and will destroy it.

Second in most states they do not allow a check valve in the house. The reson behind it is that if the pipe between the well and the house broke the check valve in the house would allow the line to depressurize. The hole could allow grond water into the line and then when the pump starts again the contaminated water will bo pushed/sucked in the house.
 
If I dont put a valve in how will I service the meter or check valve without draining the tank.
 
put the pressure switch first, then the tank then a valve, meter and valve.
 
How will you repair something if you can not shut off the pressure downstream. Valves are cheap, use more of valves not less.
 
I would recommend the gate valve and you can easily lock the valve so it doesn't accidentally get closed.
 
Insult2injury

While I agree the diagram is normal, that very complucated for a residential well application.

Surcharged,

Why are you putting in a meter in the first place? Is it required by local code?
 
I don't believe we know this is a residential well - nothing indicates what type or size of well it is.
 
This is a community well for 58 houses.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Part and Inventory Search

Sponsor