Here are a few thoughts I would consider:
1. Is this floor already constructed? If so, before you can put any type of new coating on it, the existing floor must be prepared by removal of any existing coating and/or cure-sealer put on at the time of construction. This can be done by shot blasting, acid-etching, or grinding the existing surface coating off. I’ve been involved in all three and there are pros and cons to each and one of the biggest problems is how to legally dispose of the residue.
2. If this floor is already constructed, is there a vapor barrier under it? Ron mentioned, aside from vapor transmission from the subgrade (if there is no vapor barrier), evaporation / transmission of excess mixing water can take months to level off – that’s the reason for pouring slabs-on-grade with as low a mixing water content as possible.
3. Regarding the reinforced fiberglass sheets, I’ve never seen this done. Perhaps one of the manufacturers can fill you in and SHOW you some successful projects. BUT, I sure wouldn’t want to be the guinea pig for something like this. No matter what you do to a floor like this, you own it.
4. The other option, if you have your heart set on trying it, is to do a trial area that covers both storage and isle-way floors, maybe a 6’ wide x 10’ long patch and monitor it for 6-12 months to see how it holds up under traffic.
5. We had our best luck with warehouse floors by wet-curing the floor for 7 days, let it sit for 30 days, then acid washing it with a riding floor scrubber, water rinsing it, then applying a water soluble fluorosilicate liquid hardener. There is no smell, you can get on the floor the next day and the floor does not dust. Another feature is that fork truck tires don’t leave black marks as easily as the high solids cure-n-sealers do.
6. There are still lots of heated arguments about whether to use a vapor barrier under new floor slabs, I still recommend them. After the floor is cured and mixing water evaporated (hopefully without curing the slab), the vapor barrier starts its’ useful life by preventing vapor transmission from the subgrade. If you ever want to put a new coating on the floor, you’ll be glad you have a vapor barrier under it.