If the supported member is higher, I would cope the bottom of the upper W10 and weld a plate onto the bottom of the coped web to bear it on top of the lower W10, then put a full height stiffener on both sides of the web of the upper W10 at the bearing location.
If the supporting member is higher, I would cope the top flange of the lower beam and provide a double angle welded to the bottom of the bottom flange of the upper beam for the lower beam to frame into. I probably wouldn't try this detail with heavy loads, but with a W10, it probably isn't a heavy load and you should be able to get it to work pretty easily.
There's no pretty way to connect these two. If the supportED member was higher by 7" then it would be easy.
But...
There are a couple of ugly options. Let's draw a section (well, using our imaginations, LOL) through the supportING member, with the supportED member coming in from the left.
Cope the top flange of the supportED member to allow the member to extend to the right, all the way to the right side of the supportING member. Weld a horizontal plate to the coped web of the supportED. Connect this horizontal plate to the bottom flange of the supportING member like a T-hanger. Add stiffeners in the supportED member under this plate, for torsional restraint and stability.
That's what I assumed when I typed my idea. Typical shear connection, except that the supported member is down 7".
My only other idea is to cope off the supported member bottom flange and extend the web downward by adding a plate in the plane of the web, CJP to the web. Then, bolt that plate to something hanging down from the supporting member bottom flange, an angle for example.
Maybe you could cope the lower member so that it can run under the upper and add a top plate to make up the top flange that was coped, then bolt flange to flange.
How 'bout dropping the supported W10 3" more, bolting it to the supporting member, flange-to-flange? Of course, the supported member is 3" too low now, but this can be made up in all kinds of different ways. For example, a 3" HSS, WT3x7.5, or MC (turned on its side) could be placed on the top flange and welded 1" per foot or whatever, on both sides. It think I like this idea better than my first one.
Ill figure it out. You guys ideas are great. I got his framed garage that is 6 to 7" lower then the main floor. The beam supporting beam is not very big (W10x15) so it doesnt make sense to make it bigger because it will make it heavier. Thanks everyone!
single shear tab, between the flanges of the supporting member as a stiffener, extending down sufficiently to attach the supported W10. If the connection is welded or slip-critical bolted, the torsion due to the eccentricy will be minimized, right?
