Rope climbing 2

[fuelrod]

Hello all, I'm a first time poster in Mass. I am interested in finding some information on the mechanics of mountain climbing, and the devices that are used to climb and descend rope. Are there any sources for design of rappelling hardware (capstans, etc)? Models of the forces involved in doing so? Thank you-

-Bob

 

[kstaylor]

The UIAA (

http://www.uiaa.ch)

has standards for the testing and fall rating (i.e. 5 falls, 8 falls, etc.) for climbing rope. Manufacturers of climbing hardware (i.e. chocks, carabiners, ascenders, pitons, etc.) have their own standards for design and testing of their products.

A good reference on equipment is the current catalog from Black Diamond Equipment Ltd. (

http://www.bdel.com).

They are an outgrowth of the old Chouinard Equipment Ltd. company that was started by climbing legends Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost. IMHO BD has the best designed equipment durrently on the market and they do the most to test new designs as well as preload each and every item that leaves their shop.

Be warned that reading catalogs or online literature is no substitute for expert, hands on instruction in the mountain arts. People have been and will continue to be killed or injured while participating in this sport, most due to their own stupid mistakes. Get good instruction and know your own limits!