If you're not planning to use a front antiroll bar, I would still encourage that you design it in. It can be omitted from the actual build if you want ... but if it turns out that it would be of benefit (which I suspect that it will), you are not up the creek without a paddle.
Need not be complex. Here is one of the simplest front antiroll bar linkages I can think of:
It's for a MacPherson, but you can get the idea. Item 14 is the front crossmember which also supports the steering rack (not shown). Lower control arm 9 is bolted to the ends of the crossmember with a long through-bolt and nut and a spacer between the bushes (not shown here). The same pivot bolt for the lower wishbone goes through the antiroll bar clamps 12 which clamp bushing 11 around the anitroll bar. Link 13 operates the end of the antiroll bar and attaches to the tab with a hole in it on the strut. In your case, that tab would likely be on the upper arm, but same idea.
As for your side view instant center (i.e. antidive) ... Here is an aftermarket suspension based on a Ford Mustang II (one of the few long-term merits of that car was that they had a compact front suspension design that lent itself to being built into hot rods, but I digress).
Note how the upper arm is mounted to the frame rail. The pivot rod for the upper arm is cross-bolted with two bolts going in from the top, which you can clearly see in that photo. Want to change the side-view instant center? Change the thickness of shims underneath the upper arm pivot point. Want to change the front-view instant center? Shim the front and rear attachment points unequally. Want to change the caster? Shift the whole upper arm fore-and-aft (if you use slotted holes, this is easy to do). Experiment as you wish.