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Recommended Salt Corrosion Protection 1

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MadMango

Mechanical
May 1, 2001
6,992
I deal with equipment that is used in the commercial transit field (buses and trains). Many of our components are mild steel with a powder coat finish. These usually have to pass a 100 hour or sometimes even 1000 hour salt-spray test, which isn't the problem. The problems come from the field after our equipment has been installed, and the painted finish is compromised by road debris.

Chips expose the metal, and road salts take their toll. We have looked into zinc plating, but these aren't durable. I was hoping that by posting in this forum, I might be lead to some other finishes that may hold up under the conditions I have detailed. Service lift of our products is on the order of 5-7 years, but may be as long as 10-15 years.

Thanks "The attempt and not the deed confounds us."
 
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There is a coating called Flurocote #1. It is a 3 part coating.
1. zinc phosphate metallic base coat
2. chemical bonding adhesion
3. PTFE heat cured fluoropolymer blue top coat

It has been tested to 4000 hr salt spray, and doesn't easily come off due to abrasion.
 
Consider 3M erosion tape for rock protection.
 
Is there some method, material or combination of both that can be use to protect deep waterwells from the corrosion of salty ground water?

I'm talking of protecting casing at depths of 500 ft or more. Cathodic protection have beeb tried but it didn't seems to work.

 
There are some useful materials and methods of utilizing them that should address your problem. You should consider thermally sprayed coatings of either wear/corrosion-resistant metals (e. g., MCrAlY superalloys) or ceramics (e. g., ZrO2, Al2O3). Depending upon the size, shape and requirement of your parts, you might be able to substitute a ceramic for some of them.

If you need more explicit info, let me know.
 
What happened to making trains and busses out of stainless steel? It has to be the low cost solution over the life of the vehicle.
 
Advanced Reinforced Composites can be utilised to either protect the affected areas after damage or can be used to fully protect from initial manufacture offering a long term solution to this type of damage and resulting corrosion.
 
Wondering what strength and structural requirements you have for the material. Does it have to be mild steel? What about powder coatable plastic? This is used in the automotive industry for fenders etc.
 
There is an extremely thin non-stick coating that can be applied on top of your paint. It requires no cure and is self bonding. It would also be useful in spot repairs where the paint has been damaged. It is not affected by salt air or water. It can be found at
Malcolm
 
To All, thanks for the comments and feedback. It's been over a year, so this topic is rather dead. Perhaps I should have updated everyone, sorry.

Our end users came up with the solution to Sika-flex a .060 ABS panel to the bottom, leading edges of our unit and their vehicle to act as a balistic shield.

Ray Reynolds
"Computers in the future may weigh no more than 1.5 tons."
Popular Mechanics, forecasting the relentless march of science, 1949
Have you read faq731-376 to make the best use of Eng-Tips Forums?
 
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