How to deal with "frozen" rusty joints in steel? 6

[oldestguy]

My 1999 Pick-up truck has 2" square "receiver" for trailer hitch.

Trailer hitch in that "receiver" is solid steel and been there for many years. Wisconsin salty roads have done this.

The 5/8" securing pin is rusted in solid, as is the hitch. Nothing moves, even with heavy pounding.

Been thinking I can drill out the 5/8" pin, but the remaining frozen 2" bar is something else. Length of contact is maybe 8 inches.

I have acetylene torch for a "heat wrench", but I hate to get a lot of heat in that area due to nearby wiring, etc.

Any good stuff out there to cut the rust? Coke?

 

[MintJulep]

A stout chain and a big tree?

 

[unclesyd]

Your problem is universal and there is no universal answer.
If you could drill a couple of small holes on each side of the carrier for your 2" bar and use a penetrating oil, something like Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil without Teflon.
Take your trusty torch and warm the carrier prior to adding the oil. Let the area cool off and repeat several times.

If you have a older drug store around you area you could get some Oil of Wintergreen and use it instead of LW. It will be hard to get it into the rusted area. I use a hypodermic syringe with or without a large needle, anything under 16G. Use the same technique as above.

 

[swall]

Well, at least it doesn't rattle any more.

 

[unclesyd]

Vibration will help the oil to penetrate., so let it rattle.

 

[Tmoose]

My experiences with PB Blaster have been way better than Liquid Wrench products. I'd soak it repeatedly.

Sideways force application (jacking upward and pounding downward on the hitch) would tend to help break the rust too.

 

[swall]

A lot of people swear by Kroil. I have used the red oil that comes in the visible dye penetrant kits. After all, that stuff is made to wick into tight interfaces.

 

[unclesyd]

Swall,
I've used that too but they took the good stuff off the market several years ago.

 

[gtaw]

Like "swall", I've had excellent results using Kroil. Nothing works all the time in every case, but Kroil usually does the trick.

I like to apply the Kroil to the parts the night before tackling the really hard jobs. Apply it and tap the nut or assembly for a couple of minutes, apply some more and walk a way for a while. Give it time to work in. Tap it some more, apply again, walk away. You don't have to beat the parts into submission, just make it vibrate so to speak.

As a last resort, nothing beats the "blue wrench". Just don't turn the truck into a cinder.


Best regards - Al

 

[oldestguy]

Hi all:

Keep them coming.


Last resort: Maybe torch off the hitch reciever and start again with new?

Hammers I have, patience also.

I like the idea of drilling of access holes for the oil.

 

[oldestguy]

Hi again:

An order for Kroil was placed with Lock, Stock and Barrel.

thanks.

 

[patdaly]

oldestguy,

I just went through this on my 1997. Believe it or not, it took almost 6 months of fiddling at least twice a week, repeated soakings of everything from Kroil, PB Blaster, WD40, Diesel fuel. I hit it with heat, I hit it with sledgehammers, I tied it off to a tree and tried pulling, I even tried keeping it taut on the cable and sledgehammering it to shock it.

Nothing worked, at least right up to that second where it finally decided to let go.

Just be patient, or be smart and buy a new one.

 

[kenvlach]

Inhibited hydrochloric acid (pickling solution for steel) will do the job if you can keep it in place. Maybe put wax around the side & bottom surfaces and make a small wax wall around the top interface. Or, can use Plasti-Dip instead of the wax.

Good luck. I snapped a few rusted wheel studs off in my Wisconsin days. Hated when that happened! Took to coating all the studs & lugnuts with wheel wheel bearing grease.

 

[kenre]

After a good soaking with your favourite brew, (the towbar not you) attack it with an Air chisel using a flat ended tool, Amazing what lots of vibrations can move.

Ken

 

[kenvlach]

Hey oldestguy,
Please give us an update.

Noticed an ad for COLD SHOCK(TM) penetrating oil "Designed to super-cool bolts to -30°F, causes cold-cracking action of rust and corrosion.."

http://www.jwalterinc.com/walter_us...ical&criteria=prod&category=201&cbopgroup=202

Try using a CO₂ fire extinguisher. Better if you could chill the inside part and heat the outside, but just chilling the exterior may freeze & crack the rust, then heating will loosen.

 

[Eltron]

Do you have room to get an angle grinder in there? Even though they throw a lot of sparks, things don't get as hot as the old torch. Plus, you can grind a little at a time. 'Course I'm a fan of cutting the thing off and beating the heck out of the rest of it until the joint submits to my authority. Don't seem to have as much patience with that stuff as I used to. I've also found that swearing helps.

Dan

http://www.eltronresearch.com

 

[oldestguy]

Hi guys:

Have not done anything yet and I see some good ideas here. I do have two angle grinders, Acetylene-Oxy gas outfit, two welders, plenty of taps, a 20 ton porta power, Saws-all, winches, etc.

Been thinking I might use the angle grinder on the under side and cut a notch there all the length of the reciever, then drive a chisel into the notch to spread the square "box". Or weld on some ears and drive steel wedges parallel to the box. there is steel on the sides supporting it, that would resist this wedging.

Later I'd weld the notch shut, since in that location it would not be as critical as on a lower corner. I note that most of these have a strap welded around the end, so I could beef that up also. My upside down welding is not the greatest however.

If no luck there, add the hydraulic fitting on the sides and force in some penetrating oil. I suppose I could fill a piece of hudraulic hose with that oil and then waste some jack oil forcing it toward the fitting. I don't think a zerk would do the job either.

So, with all these ideas, maybe something will get started, but many house keeping stuff has me side tracked. I hate to leave that hitch there if I change trucks, since it has the fittings for a load leveling hitch. Otherwise I'd just leave it on.

Another thought that has crossed my mind is to take the factory installed hitch off and really get it out for some rough treatment. Have not looked at how they installed it.
Chances are the bolts are rusted and froze also!!!

I have a pretty strong shop press that may see some action then.

I've been known to make up my own forge and that may come to play, who knows.

Being the oldest guy, age is 78. Any older?

Keep the ideas coming please. And Thanks all. I should be able to get started in a week or so, before the snow flys.

 

[oldestguy]

Hi to all you helpers. Many good ideas.

It came out, but only after lots of Kroil, sledge hammering and porta-power. No swearing involved, but came close.

The help of 76 year old wife with sore wrist on the Pora-power helped it move slow but steady. My helping of excercise today is complete and enuff for several days. Sledge luckily had a nice lower projection on the hitch for pounding on.

Now to clean up the receiver as well as the bar.

I'll keep that Kroil on hand forever.

I was preparing to do some real "operation" work on that receiver, but took it one step at a time. Drilling out the ends of the cut off 5/8" pin worked out good as first step. Lots of Kroil took some time before pounding began.

Again, many thanks to all.