You can water quench 1045, but quench cracking is a distinct possibility. If you are careful and have good control on the process, you can keep from cracking it.
1045 is commonly induction hardened and quenched using water + polymer mixtures, typically 5-20% polymer. Complex parts with various changes in section/thickness will probably distort and/or crack in 100% water, especially if it is cold (< 25 C).
Good answers, now how do I go about testing. We currently only run oil for quenching. Does anyone know where to possibly obtain the polymer quench and how much? Can I test with just a wash tub, maybe slight agitation. I would heat part to 1550 degrees F and plunge into tub? What temperature does this quench have to be at?
In addition to the two sources above Tenaxol is also a provider of polymer quench. If you are considering setting up a tank you typically would want to maintain temperature in the range of 95-110F. Some heat treaters control a little lower or higher depending on the application. You will need to include a heat exchanger and definitely sufficient agitation to maintain consistency of the bath. Then you may have to consider your washing capability. Polymer quenching typically leaves a sticky film on as-quenched product, although I now use Heatbath's Polyquench XND which is non-sticky.
Make sure the mixture and the "tub" quench tank temperature and agitation are the same as the final process mixture and final "tub" quench tank temperature and agitation.
Are you tempering after quenching? If so the group may provide additional details if we know the material and final hardness range.
A quick and dirty way of quenching in a barrel or tub and get the quenchant warm without the need of a heat exchanger is to take a warm scrap metal part and heat it to 500°F and dump it into your cold agitating quenchant to raise its temperature. When the temperature is about right, quech your part. This method is an old trick better suited to one offs and not a productionized method
