When drilling would it be best to turn off flood coolant and only run through coolant with a drill? Would this create a higher pressure of coolant flow through the drill, as opposed to running both flood and through coolant? any suggestions?
Trying to find a TEMPORARY solution. We got some drills that are designed for a higher coolant pressure than we have and they have been wearing down and becoming dull too fast. We have been running with flood and through spindle coolant.
As a rule of thumb you need 1.5 GPM/HP used at the point of cut for big chip machining + 1 GPM per 10 feet that you need to move the chips to have enough fluid that it's application is/can't be and issue -- to answer your question check how may GPM your pump is supposed to deliver and then check the volume you are actually getting (a5 gallon bucket and a stop watch)--often times the pumps are throttled back to reduce the splash -- then run the same experiment with and with out your flood coolant --
Also be aware that if you don't keep your coolant very clean or with enough use the impeller and seals in the pump will wear and it will loose a lot of efficiency
good luck
A.R. "Andy" Nelson
Engineering Consultant
anelson@arnengineering.com
To make full use of the thru the drill coolant you need to push sufficient volume thru the drill that the velocity of the coolant will lift the chip out of the hole before the drill comes around again -- that will make sure that the chips do not birds next or get recut
A.R. "Andy" Nelson
Engineering Consultant
anelson@arnengineering.com
Before you try to figure out about the coolant application, you should first to know if the drill geometry and carbide grade are suitable for the work material. Coolant-through drills performs ALWAYS better that those with flood coolant provided that drill geometry, machining regime, tool material (including the proper coating) and coolant flow rate are suitable for the application.
IMHO, the best way to start is to look at the wear pattern on you drills - to understand "where it hurts" - it is drill corner's excessive wear or the chisel edge presets the problem, or the major cutting edges (lips) are simply chipped. Depending upon the results obtained, the proper solution to your problem can be found: carbide grade, tool geometry, coolant, etc.
Perform a little cost analysis and see if you're wasting your time or not. 500 holes doesn't really say much... are they .25" or 2.5" deep? Perhaps the tool life is fine and you just need to change tools more often. When everything breaks down; cost per part, tooling usually comes out at 1-3% of total costs. You can increase the tool life or push them harder to lower the cycle times. Do the math... but I've found, more often than not, that trying to increase tool life by 10-20% is more expensive than pushing them 10-20% harder.