"Fair enough. Do they usually come with wires to pull it down so that you can lower the roof?"
In my experience - seldom but it can be done, has been a very long time since I've seen or made one.
"Or just rubbing strips on the roof?"
Usually a roller on the end of the swingpipe and a track on the underside of the IFR.
"You can run into issues if air or vapor is trapped in the floating suctions during initial fill."
I put a initial fill bleed hole in the top of the pipe at the end
"Normally, in the design of a floating suction, you'd want substantial excess buoyancy to allow for variations in density, dimensions, thicknesses, product specific gravity, jet effects, etc. But if it's under an aluminum IFR, they may have very little dead load available to resist uplift. So it becomes kind of a balancing act."
Quite correct, I've used 125 to 250 pounds net up for years.
"There may be a cable or chain to limit maximum lift angle on the floating suction, and if that is broken, that could cause the problem."
Correct, or if the painters disconnected it (yep that happens!)
"If the tank has a light product, it might be possible to float the floating roof above the problem spot, then slowly pump water back into the floating suction and bring it down. Some calculations would be in order before trying this,"
Never tired that but it might work. If the chain is broken or missing, this will be a disaster if the swingpipe goes past vertical, in which case the IFR doomed. Last time I was involved in a disconnected chain, we held the IFR up using chains and lowered the liquid level until the swingpipe angle was good, then lowered the IFR down onto it, emptied the tank, connected the hold-down chain and went on our merry way.
"If the floating suction is filled with air and the outlet is above liquid level, it may float in that position."
Not sure what response to generate for this...