Hey, I can't find any info how should be shown fillet-butt weld around CHS joint in drawings? I've attached picture. At crown toe and heel is fillet weld and at saddle butt weld. Transition between welds continuous and smooth. Any suggestions? Sorry for my English. Looking forward
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Fillet-butt weld symbol 1
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Thanks Mike,
If i could change type of weld i would do the same what you wrote or only butt weld around joint. But I can't change anything in this connection so I need to figure out how to symbol that kind of weld in drawings. Weld should be fillet- butt with smooth transition. Any suggestions?
If i could change type of weld i would do the same what you wrote or only butt weld around joint. But I can't change anything in this connection so I need to figure out how to symbol that kind of weld in drawings. Weld should be fillet- butt with smooth transition. Any suggestions?
Guest102023
Materials
Using the 'all-round' circle in the weld symbol is superfluous, as the weld joint is circular/elliptical. But I long ago gave up asking draftsmen to drop it ...
Guest102023
Materials
SnTMan,
I've probably met some of them, which is one of several reasons I put down the tools of ignorance and jumped off a sinking ship named SS Manufacturing
I've probably met some of them, which is one of several reasons I put down the tools of ignorance and jumped off a sinking ship named SS Manufacturing
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racookpe1978
Nuclear
Regardless of the weld symbol used to try to describe the geometry you want the welders to re-create - which is probably best drawn exactly as you did with your figure! - I have a more fundamental question about the joint itself.
You've drawn a pipe, flat-cut as if with a band saw at elevation "d" above the bottom of the lower pipe, that intersects a second pipe of slightly smaller "d1" diameter at an acute angle of approximately 45 degrees with the horizontal pipe. No weld prep is specified on pipe "d1", nor is one drawn.
Then you "glob" a fillet weld slightly greater than the wall thickness of either pipe around the joint.
Regardless of what your symbol is, the weld itself seems still nothing more than a long, irregular string or "glob" of metal trying to act like a fillet weld.
1. I recommend strongly you cut the pipe "d1" with a hole saw of diameter "d". The hole saw should be set at the intersection angle.
This will allow a uniform fillet weld all around the joint when the two pipes are mated up - instead of a weld that must be much longer at both sides as you try to make up the large gap between the two pipes.
A cut like this will make your weld much, much smaller and more uniform, and will end up saving weld filler, welding time, give better-looking joints, and be easier and faster to finish.
2. Prep the pipe "d1" to allow a better joint by rolling it past a grinder wheel at about 40 degree angle with the wheel surface. You need to grind the weld zone anyway 9you do clean the steel to bare metal all around the joint, 1/2 past the joint, before welding right? (Hint, hint.) The bevel pass should be the final pass of that routine. This bevel needs not be "perfect" nor does the landing need to be a "perfect" 1/16 inch. But the bevel prep will all a better, stronger joint.
You've drawn a pipe, flat-cut as if with a band saw at elevation "d" above the bottom of the lower pipe, that intersects a second pipe of slightly smaller "d1" diameter at an acute angle of approximately 45 degrees with the horizontal pipe. No weld prep is specified on pipe "d1", nor is one drawn.
Then you "glob" a fillet weld slightly greater than the wall thickness of either pipe around the joint.
Regardless of what your symbol is, the weld itself seems still nothing more than a long, irregular string or "glob" of metal trying to act like a fillet weld.
1. I recommend strongly you cut the pipe "d1" with a hole saw of diameter "d". The hole saw should be set at the intersection angle.
This will allow a uniform fillet weld all around the joint when the two pipes are mated up - instead of a weld that must be much longer at both sides as you try to make up the large gap between the two pipes.
A cut like this will make your weld much, much smaller and more uniform, and will end up saving weld filler, welding time, give better-looking joints, and be easier and faster to finish.
2. Prep the pipe "d1" to allow a better joint by rolling it past a grinder wheel at about 40 degree angle with the wheel surface. You need to grind the weld zone anyway 9you do clean the steel to bare metal all around the joint, 1/2 past the joint, before welding right? (Hint, hint.) The bevel pass should be the final pass of that routine. This bevel needs not be "perfect" nor does the landing need to be a "perfect" 1/16 inch. But the bevel prep will all a better, stronger joint.
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