Anchoring scissor car hoist/lift 1

[NotHandyRandy]

Hello,

Mounting scissor lift

Hi everyone,

I recently acquired a mid-rise scissor car lift rated for 9,000 lbs, and I'm planning to use it for vehicles up to a maximum of 5,500 lbs. Here's a photo of the lift:

lift dimensions: https://i.ibb.co/CsVGv8QB/IMG-7145.jpg


Unfortunately, the manufacturer is out of business and there are no official specs or installation guides available.

### Lift Details:

* **Lift Type:** Mid-rise scissor
* **Capacity:** 9,000 lbs - I will do max 5500 lbs
* **Platform Size:** 22” wide x 54” long (each side)
* **Mounting Surface:** Residential garage
* **Concrete Slab Thickness:** is 4" (measured two test holes; for safety at 4 1/2”+ I’m conservatively assuming 4”)


### My Plan:

I'm considering anchoring the lift with **epoxy-set anchors**. I'd prefer to use **5/8” anchors**, but most manufacturers data sheets specify **1/2”** epoxy anchors for 4” slabs.

Interestingly, a U.S. company that sells a
mid-rise 2-post lift allows installation on 4” concrete and includes **5/8” sleeve anchors** — though I’m unsure if sleeves are ideal in this application I could buy those. Brand is Max Jack, two post stresses concrete a lot more no ?

### What I Need Help With:

* Is it reasonable/safe to use 5/8” **epoxy anchors** in a 4” slab?
* Are **sleeve anchors** advisable in this context, or would **epoxy or wedge anchors** be better?

* General advice or best practices you’d follow in this situation?

Thanks in advance for any insights. I know no one here can assume liability, but I’d appreciate experienced suggestions to help me approach this as safely as possible.

Thank you

 

[ChorasDen]

Try posting this in the structural engineer general forum, you may get more answers.

 

[NotHandyRandy]

Try posting this in the structural engineer general forum, you may get more answers.

Appreciate suggestion, thank you
I actually put that by Accident in wrong forum

 

[XR250]

I did not realize scissors lifts required anchoring. Given that manufacturers of two post lifts somehow allow you to anchor them to a 4 inch slabs with 3/4"Ø wedge anchors, I imagine anything you do will be fine. I doubt any anchors are actually rated for 4" of concrete - other than small diameter ones.

 

[NotHandyRandy]

I did not realize scissors lifts required anchoring. Given that manufacturers of two post lifts somehow allow you to anchor them to a 4 inch slabs with 3/4"Ø wedge anchors, I imagine anything you do will be fine. I doubt any anchors are actually rated for 4" of concrete - other than small diameter ones.

Yes 1/2” for most part

I guess there is tipping inward possibility with arms, in my case cars are sitting above the platform, or outer edge / arms are never extended outside the platform.

Many of the imported scissor lifts are considered portable they are inter connected platforms, here the platforms are independent

Thank you

 

[JStephen]

The anchors may be more so that the unit doesn't slide out of the way when you try to drive onto it, rather than for uplift.
If you could park a car so the wheel was right at the very end of the unit, I can see the need for anchors, but it's not clear what the original design conditions for this would have been.

 

[NotHandyRandy]

The anchors may be more so that the unit doesn't slide out of the way when you try to drive onto it, rather than for uplift.
If you could park a car so the wheel was right at the very end of the unit, I can see the need for anchors, but it's not clear what the original design conditions for this would have been.

Thank you

To visualize this further

In my case lifting points are close the outside edge, with no to minimal over hang in reality.

what do you gentleman think ?
5/8 epoxy hilti drop in anchors, they spec for thicker concrete in reality, but I will reach proper embedment ?

Or shall I just use 1/2” which meets the concrete spec ?

Or just normal red head wedge ?

 

[lexpatrie]

Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions, i.e. use the proper tools which you may have to rent from somebody for the more esoteric anchors. Epoxy you want to properly brush out and blow out the holes, ensure that it's dry, and follow the mixing ratios, setting time, and so forth.

Generally the epoxy is going to be more specific on the requirements, as these typically require special inspection (when structural), and failing to follow those instructions closely will jeopardize strength, sometimes dramatically. The expansion anchors there are required torques usually and that means some kind of calibrated tool to properly measure that, as I recall. Overtorquing them can blow out the concrete and then you've got a situation. You want the holes to go straight down, so handheld, I'm not so sure that's the way to go.

If this is in a seismic zone and the lift isn't for "personal use" at your house... might want to get it designed or installed by someone familiar with the installation requirements. If it's outside you'd be well advised to not leave the lift loaded with a high profile vehicle when there are strong winds forecast, just to keep from potential failure.

 

[NotHandyRandy]

Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions, i.e. use the proper tools which you may have to rent from somebody for the more esoteric anchors. Epoxy you want to properly brush out and blow out the holes, ensure that it's dry, and follow the mixing ratios, setting time, and so forth.

Generally the epoxy is going to be more specific on the requirements, as these typically require special inspection (when structural), and failing to follow those instructions closely will jeopardize strength, sometimes dramatically. The expansion anchors there are required torques usually and that means some kind of calibrated tool to properly measure that, as I recall. Overtorquing them can blow out the concrete and then you've got a situation. You want the holes to go straight down, so handheld, I'm not so sure that's the way to go.

If this is in a seismic zone and the lift isn't for "personal use" at your house... might want to get it designed or installed by someone familiar with the installation requirements. If it's outside you'd be well advised to not leave the lift loaded with a high profile vehicle when there are strong winds forecast, just to keep from potential failure.

As I said initially mentioned manufacturer is out of business, so I have no source or guidance.

Not seismic zone
Personal use

I’m very familiar with Hilti epoxy system install, I own dispensing gun.

As far for torque, I have multiple torque wrenches with recent calibration +- 1-2% which is incredibly precise.

Thank you

 

[XR250]

I'd be using epoxy as it will be more tolerant of a 4" slab install. When you drill the hole in the slab, the bottom can spall out - which can be a problem for other types of anchors in the thin substrate. Maybe switch to rotation mode in your drill once you get near the bottom.. Sometimes the epoxy just keeps running out the bottom of the hole if you punch thru. I put a 2 post lift in my garage but had 8" of concrete. Used 3/4"Ø wedge anchors.

 

[BridgeSmith]

Epoxy you want to properly brush out and blow out the holes, ensure that it's dry, and follow the mixing ratios, setting time, and so forth.

Definitely clean the holes thoroughly, and mix the components thoroughly. I would say clean using water with the brush and then blow the water out. We've had so many failures in the field, even when a brush was used, we no longer use adhesive (epoxy) anchors in tension applications.

 

[XR250]

Definitely clean the holes thoroughly, and mix the components thoroughly. I would say clean using water with the brush and then blow the water out. We've had so many failures in the field, even when a brush was used, we no longer use adhesive (epoxy) anchors in tension applications.

Doesn't Hilti have one now that needs no brushing?

 

[XR250]

Nevermind. Not for the average user.

SafeSet System with Hollow Drill Bit: When using certain Hilti adhesive anchors, particularly in masonry, the Hilti SafeSet™ system can eliminate the need for brushing. This method involves using a hollow drill bit and a vacuum to remove dust during drilling, eliminating the need for manual hole cleaning