Why not use the flanged bushings on the rotating bracket, eliminate the stationary bushings and fix the pin to the stationary bracket?

As drawn the flange bushings will most likely rotate in the stationary part, and the sleeve bushing will do nothing.

I agree with dvd's suggestion.

I've updated the design as per recommendations here.


1. Should there be gap between the stationary bracket and the flanged sleeve bearing?
2. If there is gap, but the gap is closed due to clamping effect from the bolt, will the rotating bracket still be able to pivot purely based on the fact that the oilite bearing is lubricated?

Minimize (but don't eliminate) the gap to lessen the bending moment on the axle.

Have you confirmed bearing pressure with the chosen length of flange bushing?

Consider using a shoulder bolt, or axle bolt instead of a through bolt to avoid drawing the bracket together. There are other options that don't involve threaded fasteners.

@MintJulep
May I know what is the item in your attached picture?

@dvd
A shoulder bolt is a good idea. I should have known. A simple Google search of bolts for pivot would have return similar recommendation. Thanks very much.

At the moment, the flanged bushing sketch is just a representative. We will be performing the necessary calculations to ensure that the length of the flange bushing corresponds to the applied bearing pressure. Thanks for the reminder.

You might also consider the axle detail appropriated from Algirdas13 recent post - it is a very common way of fixing an axle. The slot is typically sawn/milled in with a flat bottom to accept the flat-bar keeper and prevent rotation.

"May I know what is the item in your attached picture?"

They are Palnuts. Push-on fasteners that are useful for cases like yours, where you want to use a standard bolt as a pin. They'll retain the bolt without loading it in tension.

https://apexfasteners.com/fasteners/palnutreg-fast...

Some styles can be used on a plain, unthreaded rod, which might be a good option for you.

For example, commonly used to hold the wheels on tricycles, wagons, pedal cars, wheelbarrows etc.

you can add another sleeve (spacer) as in red to keep your bracket from bend.
you Oilite is self lubricating, but I'm not sure how is your whole application. are you going to submerge all in oil?
or are you going to provide a way to lubricate the shaft using grease or oil?
the friction will depend on what type material you going to use for the stationery bracket and your bush. and how the load will be applied.
you can also consider COM KU/D for your bushing.




you can also make your shaft like this:

with this, you can skip the red sleeve I mentioned in previous image.

R.Efendy

This is the updated design that I have gone with:


The pivot will be operating in a standard indoor environment, not submerged in any liquid and not in contact with anything corrosive. The pivot will be adjusted manually, probably less than 10-20 times a day, and loading is not very high.
At the moment, lubrication of the pivot is dependent on the Oilite self-lubricating properties. There is no grease nipple or anything of that sort for additional lubrication application. In the worse case, the pivot could be disassembled for ease of additional lubrication application, if it comes to the point where it is necessary.

Thanks for update. I don't understand the choice to have a washer on the left-hand side - why not use a flange bushing on both sides of the pivot? If the unit decides to ride against the left-hand side you will end up with potential galling, wear, increased friction, etc.

Oilite bushings do not like grease, so no grease nipple is a good choice.