Like this - 4-in x 4-in x 2-in Dia Schedule 40 Wye

Good Luck,
Latexman

http://www.rjsales.com/products/buttweld/breweryqu...
Like this except PVC

https://getpvf.com/mechanical-tee-threaded-style-1...
Or like this except tangential to branch run

JL

What's wrong exactly with a branch connection and a45 degrees elbow?

Wyes, angle branches etc create large stresses at the crotch and are quite rare.

Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.

Never seen one of those in our plants. Have you e-mailed that image to some big PVC pipe companies? Like Charlotte Pipe? I'm sure there are many.

Are you making a small cyclone/hydroclone? You can get those ready-made.

Good Luck,
Latexman

Thank you for the lead. I'm building a prototype, in my garage, and need this tangential tee for the hydrocyclone portion of the system. If it was a normal hydrocyclone I would just buy, but this one has some odd dimensions from the typical design.

I'm hoping I can find something for < $100. I recieved a FRP quote from a large FRP pipe and fitting supplier for $1200. Not ideal for prototype build.

Steel prices are crazy these days so I figured PVC would be best for prototype.

I will contact Charlotte Pipe.

JL

Another thought, can someone 3D print one for you?

Good Luck,
Latexman

If prototyping, I would buy a full size tee, then whittle/cast/machine a plug to locate the desired hole off-axis, and perhaps shape the end of the plug to match the main line i.d. A bit of work with some PVC rod and a lathe and mill, but not too bad. Glue the plug into the fitting using standard PVC primer and solvent cement.

I have 3D printed a smaller 2" run 1" branch version. To print a larger unit would not be possible on the printer I have. I looked into it and it would be quite expensive to print from some of the online companyues that do that sort of thing. The smaller version I printed took nearly 2 days to print.
Also 3D printing a water tight tee that can withstand 20psig is no simple task. It has to be coated with epoxy etc. I was thinking there would be someone out there who could just supply the part readymade.

JL

Good to know, thanks.

Good Luck,
Latexman

This discussion has made me think of something I've never thought of....

I could just buy say a 6"x6"x6" PVC block, center drill a 4" hole then drill a 2" hole tangential to it using the orthogonal block face. Might not be the prettiest thing, but I'm a garage engineer after all. I wouldn't need any sophisticated tools either.

Thank you

JL

Is it similar to connect a 4x2 eccentric reducer to a 4" Tee?
Or, to build it with FRP could be a option?

I need the tangential inlet for the cyclonic nature of flow inside the tee.

FRP can be made quite cheaply so long as I do it myself. I was looking for an easy out hoping you folks would know of a supplier...I've been searching for one for quite some time with no luck.

Charlotte pipe, nibco, no luck.

JL

Have you looked into lab scale units? Spray dryer companies have some small units. Maybe you could get one second hand.



Good Luck,
Latexman

Latexman, that is a great idea. The cyclone image you show would be great actually since it says interchangeable apex and feed which is what I will need to experiment with.

Do you have a source of where that image came from?

JL

I Googled “lab scale cyclone separator” and it was on
https://www.911metallurgist.com/equipment/mini-lab... .

They do have a 4” body unit:



Good Luck,
Latexman

Update

I found a company in south africa, trithane, that sells individual cyclone parts - apex, inlet housing, vortex finders etc. This is my easy out.

JL

Thanks for the follow-up!

Good Luck,
Latexman

Make your own by machining one end of a PVC stub to same radius of the pipe on which you intend joining the machined stub.

Based on the quotes I've received for fabricated units. I will make it myself...trying my hand at casting. I modeled a sanitary clamp version and created a mold for it. Hoping I can print it, clamp it, and pour it using a rigid urethane resin. Anyone know of a good rigid urethane resin? Flex-it 80? I do not imagine the pressure will exceed 10psig inside the part.

JL

Closed molding is much more challenging than people realize. Resins shrink significantly during cure. you will be come distracted from your initial problem by working on solving problems with casting. If you can fabricate a mold to make one part, surely you can fabricate the part more easily.

So, yesterday I did 3D print the part. I 3D printed a solid part using PETG filament. Hopefully this works! Thanks for the heads up on molding/casting - my ignorance on the subject in monumental.

JL