Motor contactor wiring check 3

You are missing a wire and a set of auxiliary contacts.
Wire numbers would help. You need a black wire.
Well, you nave wires connecting the "Emergency Stop Button", the "Power on Button" and the pilot light.
From that common point, run another wire to T3. (In place of an auxiliary contact.)
Run a jumper from L3 to A1.
Disclaimer:
This advice is based on the components being as described by the standard symbols.

Bill
--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!

Hmmmm.. where to start..
First off you do not use the same 220 V to feed the servo as you use for the control circuit, they need to be separate with there own fuses.
Start with that and come back. ;-)

Best Regards A


“Logic will get you from A to Z; imagination will get you everywhere.“
Albert Einstein

In North America;
On a small motor, the circuit breaker may provide acceptable protection for short control circuits.
Different codes, Red.

Bill
--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!

@Waross, appreciate it. Is this better (blue wire for quick representation only)? I am learning that others in the past have not always set up things properly, so I want to learn myself this time.

The CB and fusing is from the manual, size and placement.

Okey
Coming from the industri world we would never make a stand alone funktion like that, so we always separats everything like power and control circuits.
With our standards that would not be a correct emergency stop function either.



Best Regards A

“Logic will get you from A to Z; imagination will get you everywhere.“
Albert Einstein

One thing if it is the drawing or the servo manual, L1 and L2 usually means 2 phases.
If it is powered 220 V AC it would have sade L1 ,N at least in Europe.



BR A

“Logic will get you from A to Z; imagination will get you everywhere.“
Albert Einstein

@RedSnake, agree the L1 and L2 are confusing, but that is how the drive is labeled. Terminal T is used for 3 phase.

Well some servos can be driven with different power connection options both for control power L1, L2 and for power feed, R,S,T.
So one needs to read the manual properly to get it right, if the servo is programable there might be settings that needs to be made.

BR A

“Logic will get you from A to Z; imagination will get you everywhere.“
Albert Einstein

RedSnake: L1, N, L2 is standard North American numbering.
Don't feel bad. I found out the difference just in time when hooking up a European standby generator to a North American system.
The consequences could have been more exciting than finding out in a friendly discussion.

MScarn: I gave you a circuit based on the standard three wire motor control circuit that was old 60 years ago, and based on this disclaimer:

This advice is based on the components being as described by the standard symbols.

Click to expand...

Now you add non-standard information.
Check the manual, or RTFI.


Bill
--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!

For Googlability, when waross says you're missing a wire and need an auxiliary contact that is in reference to "3 wire control". 3 wire is for push buttons and 2 wire is for switches.

waross I don't feel bad, no worry.
[highlight #73D216]European standard L1 N = 220 VAC L1 L2 = 380 VAC and R, S, T incoming, U, V, W outgoing[/highlight]
I just saw 220 VAC and thought yes I thought US only went by 120 VAC ;-)
I am very much for reading manuals so I guess I would have figured it out, if I had to.

Best Regards A

“Logic will get you from A to Z; imagination will get you everywhere.“
Albert Einstein

Old habits die hard.
In the 40's the standard voltages in North America were 110/220 Volts. In the 50's the voltages were raised at the rate of 1/2 Volts per year until 120/240 Volts was reached.
We had 5 years at 112/224 Volts, 5 years at 115/230 Volts, 5 years at 117/234 Volts and finally 120/240 Volts.
After generations of 110/220 Volts, the non-electrical public continued to refer to 220 Volts. This has been passed down to people who were born after 240 became the standard.
To make matters more confused, we see a lot of imported Asian equipment for the North American market labelled for 220 Volts.

Bill
--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!

Waross, what is non standard? Just wanting to learn. I understand now about using the L3 and T3 terminals as the auxiliary contacts.

Edit; I see I have a wire color mislabeled @ L1 (should be black, not white)

waross said:

Old habits die hard.

Click to expand...

True
I still think about European standard as 220 VAC, 3-phase 380 VAC but now it is actually 230 VAC, 3-phase 400V.
I am getting old. :-(

/A

“Logic will get you from A to Z; imagination will get you everywhere.“
Albert Einstein

MScarn do you have a manual for this servo drive?

Best Regards A

“Logic will get you from A to Z; imagination will get you everywhere.“
Albert Einstein

I would expect L1 and L2 on the drive to be fed from the contactor, not directly from the breaker, unless;
What does the manual say?

Bill
--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!

I have dealt with a lot of different kinds of servos drives and regardless of how old they are they usually have either functional inputs or are programable by a bus system.
Signals like enable, inhibit, backward, forward and run.
If this signals are going to be used the control power must be intact even if the power feed is off.
Depending on the drive or the function of the motor it can sometimes become a problem cutting off the control power since this functions can't be utilized.
But not knowing the servos functions or the motors function it is hard to tell.

Best Regards A

“Logic will get you from A to Z; imagination will get you everywhere.“
Albert Einstein

Thanks for the information, RedSnake.

Bill
--------------------
Ohm's law
Not just a good idea;
It's the LAW!

I'll start with something basic;
Why are you wanting a contactor ahead of a servo drive? Are you aware that it's not really a good idea to control a servo drive by turning power on and off to it every time? Servo drives, like all electronic drives, have what's called a "pre-charge" circuit inside that prevents the DC bus capacitors from damaging themselves when you first apply power. The pre-charge circuit puts a current limiting resistor in series with the DC feed to the caps for a second whenever you apply power, then shorts around it with a relay contact once the caps are fully charged. That resistor and relay have a limited lifespan, usually about 1,000 operations. So if used once in a blue moon, you may never see it fail in your lifetime. But if you cycle power once per day, you consume that lifespan in <3 years, if you do it 10 times per day, <1 year! As a general rule, having a "safety contactor" ahead of it is fine, because ostensibly that is only going to be operated in an emergency. But if thus is for general on-off control (meaning the "Panel Power On" button you show), I would feed that to the servo drive directly, leave the contactor tied only to the E-Stop only.

Your control circuit is incorrect by the way. The Power On pilot light will glow ever WITHOUT the Panel Power On button being depressed and the Aux contact (L3/T3) is not going to seal in around the Power On button. The way you have it will seal in around the E-Stop!

I'm also curious as to why your Servo drive has an L!, L2 input and an R,S,T input? I'm thinking these are the SAME input points, just labeled for different parts of the world; L1, L2 for North America where it would be more common to have 240V single phase, and R, S, T for the rest of the world where 240V 3 phase would be more common. A simple check would be to see if L1 and R are common to each other.


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