Every time I work on my car, there is a different fastener that I don't have drivers for. The last was the security Torx, requiring a hollow driver which I thought I had a set of until I observed that it requires a 5-sided vs. 6-sided driver. I don't know which one is best, but there is no end to the options available, it seems.

Brad Waybright

It's all okay as long as it's okay.

There certainly are enough options out there.
http://www.tamperproof.com/

Maybe contact these guys (or other vendors) and ask them what their users say about the different choices.

TygerDawg
Blue Technik LLC
Virtuoso Robotics Engineering
www.bluetechnik.com

What is your definition of "resistant to tampering?"

The reason there are some many drive is because eBay, Amazon, and Alibaba are the great equalizers and every "tamper resistant" fastener that's "easy and quick to change with the correct tooling" has had such tooling made available to the general public. In this day and age, "tamper resistant" and "easy and quick to change" are mutually exclusive.

TTFN (ta ta for now)
I can do absolutely anything. I'm an expert! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKorP55Aqvg
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Nothing screwed down is tamper-proof. You have two improving options: using locking paste ('locktite'- type) or additional 'hidden' mechanical locks, but non unbreakable solutions unless glued, welded or otherwise sealed.


Using best/fastest/cheapest type for fabricated mounting and lifetime tight-closing plus locking paste would be my choice.

One system we used years ago, until the thieves figured it out, was to assemble parts with left handed screws.
B.E.

You are judged not by what you know, but by what you can do.

Red loctite combined with button head or low head cap screws (which have weak drive broaches) are a semi-decent option, depending on what tools you have to protect against.

It's also pretty easy to have a technician assembly something with button head screws and loctite, and then have them ruin the head of the screw with a die grinder or whatever so it's not removeable.

How much time do you have, compared to the guy you're trying to keep out of your gear?

jgKRI,
One method we used years ago on cash boxes was to assemble with socket head screws, then when the assembly was tight, take a drill and round the holes from hex.
B.E.

You are judged not by what you know, but by what you can do.

More info on the application, who you are trying to keep out and the risk level you are protecting would be useful.

For example if it is a commercial product for use in homes with a relatively minor risk if the part is opened (i.e. you just need to look like you have considered it) then check out what drives are available in the major DIY stores and avoid them.

If it is an item that will have 'professionals' (for want of a better term) trying to get access and a high risk if they succeed, then probably screws aren't the best option - I've yet to meet a screw I couldn't remove.

Declan Scullion CEng
www.leandfm.com