Typically I try to limit the joist deflection near hard points as much as is reasonable.

A slot works nicely but you can have issues with where the bolt ends up in the slot. You need to make sure the bolt ends up in the top of the slot (or make the slot very large, which is not that practical) and you also need to make sure that continues along the length of the truss. It's no good if some bolts are right and others are wrong, the load will go wherever it can.

I also have some doubts about how "slippery" that slotted connection really is. If it's important, I make sure to indicate not to tighten the nut or maybe even add a teflon washer.
Sometimes that's tough when you're also relying on the wall/deck connection for out-of-plane anchorage of the wall.

Do you have to have a joist near the wall? What about attaching an angle iron to the wall and letting the deck span from the next joist over?

Boiler, try the attached. Should be an applicable detail in there.

Professional Engineer (ME, NH, MA) Structural Engineer (IL)
American Concrete Industries
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My first choice would be a composite of what's been said above. I'd install a deck bearing angle without slip, space the first joist as far away as I could, and then try to tighten up the joist stiffness locally.

If the slip connection must be had, you might try welding a PSA strap/insert anchor to the top of the joist and inserting into a female bit cast into the precast shear wall. I've got that on a project right now where the roof is hollow core rather than joists. It's a reliable way to both get vertical slip and maintain shear transfer.

I like to debate structural engineering theory -- a lot. If I challenge you on something, know that I'm doing so because I respect your opinion enough to either change it or adopt it.

These are the connectors Koot is referring to: http://www.jvi-inc.com/index.cfm/products/slotted-...