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steel beam to wood column connection

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gte447f

gte447f

Structural
Dec 1, 2008
815
Can anyone recommend a typical detail for attaching a W beam to a wood column?

Also, when inserting a steel drop beam below existing wood joists (e.g. as in replacing an existing stud bearing wall), is it possible to brace the compression flange of the steel beam with the wood joists? If so, what is the best way to connect the joists to the beam... wood nailer w/ toenails, clip angle with thru-bolt, some sort of Simpson clip, etc.?
 
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Typical Detail suggestion: Weld a couple of steel tabs on the underside of the botttom flange of the beam that are perpendicular to the web of the beam and provide at least two bolt holes into the column.

As for the other, I would attach a wood nailer to the top of the beam with Nelson Sill Plate Anchors, and toenail the joists to the nailer, placing solid blocking between the joists. I add Simpson A35's or LPT's to the blocking/nailer connection if needed.

Mike McCann
MMC Engineering
 
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We use what Mike recommends often. Also if the beam is framing into the face of a post we have used a welded end plate that is screwed into the post with a bunch of SDS screws. Not a lot of tolerance wih that connection though.
 
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M^2 has it right, although I have seen carpenters simply nail a 16d nail into the joist and bend it over the bottom of the top flange of the beam.

Can't say that is unacceptable....
 
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MiketheEngineer -- Are you saying that the contractor predrills the top flange of the beam and then nails the wood nailer through the holes of the flange and then bends the nail at the underside of flange? That sounds hokey to me... I like the welded threaded studs a lot better.
 
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No - they place the nail right next to the top flange of the beam - drive it about 2/3 - 3/4 into the joist and then simply bend it underneath the top flange of the joist.
 
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Not to get off topic -- but how is the nailer prevented from slipping along the axis of the beam? friction? Along the transverse axis seems like you are counting on the bent nail to hold the assembly in place. Is that tight?

Seems like a unique approach to attaching the nailer to the beam, but still seems hokey to me...
 
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There is no nailer.

Maybe I am not understanding what you are doing. But what I was "thinking" was a simple I-beam supporting 2x10s (or whatever) floor or ceiling joists.

This detail is what I see quite often. Will the I-beam "slip" - I doubt it - since it is tied into walls or concrete pockets..
 
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Thanks for all of the input.

MiketheEngineer, you have the situation right, and I understand exactly what you are describing, but I think I will prefer a little more substantial bracing connection than the bent over nail.

As far as a wood nailer goes, I have usually specified powder actuated fasteners or bolts. Do the nelson studs (we are talking about Nelson threaded studs, right) have advantages over either of these two methods? Are the studs welded to the beam flange in the field? I wouldn't normally trust residential contractors to do much welding.
 
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If you want the wood nailer and I DON'T disagree (only nails seem a bit light) - just nail it tight against the top flange of the I-beam on both sides. Easier, quicker, cheaper, etc.

Don't forget the 2% rule. It only takes about 2% of the maximum force in a beam to keep it stable. I usually use 5%!!
 
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