BOBDELL,
Welcome to the forum. As you have already seen there are a lot of valuable contributions availablehere, and the difficult part of your adventure is already over; the part where you learned to recognize the problem for what it is. Now all you need to do is sort through the options available to you to fix it. By the way, there used to be a DANDELL that frequented this forum a lot, any relation? (just kidding of course)
First off, a CVT is an OK solution to a small short duration voltage dip, but has limitations when it comes to a long term sag or a deep low voltage conditions. If your size 6 contactor indeed chattered and blew up (my suspicion as well), your voltage dip was probably in excess of a level that a CVT can maintain at. It would help and you should do it first, but you may still get a problem now and again. Fix the cause (motor starting issue) as soon as possible.
As to which technology, IMHO a reduced voltage solid state (RVSS) starter is your best solution. Resistor starters are a big no-no, high fire risk (glowing red hot resistors and sawmills do not mix). Start-delta (aka Wye-Delta in the US) may cause more problems that it solves due to transition spikes when the starter shifts from a wye pattern to full voltage delta, and besides, wye-delta motors are not as common in the US so replacements are an issue. Autotransformer starters can be used with standard motors, but still give you problems with transition spikes and are now MORE expensive than RVSS starters anyway. Starter motors (aka Pony Motors) add complexity, safety and service issues that most lumber mills cannot afford to add to a machine that is often the heart and soul of the entire operation.
RVSS starters offer you full adjustability, no transition, and if selected correctly, 25+ years of service without replacing contacts etc. I wrote an FAQ that will give you some insight as to what they are and how they work.
faq237-1064
In addition to that info, let me also offer some opinions on how to select one.
1) Make sure you get a NEMA 12 enclosed starter with a bypass contactor. This will keep the sawdust out of it, and the bypass contactor will never wear out since it does not switch the motor on or off, it just keeps the SCRs from oveheating with the door closed.
2) Buy the heaviest duty rating you can afford. Smaller cheaper starters look attractive up front, but remember "there is no free lunch". They are smaller and cheaper for a reason. Many skimp on heat sink material and so cannot handle the heavy duty nature of most sawmill machinery loads. A good starting place is to ask about the "Overload Capacity" of the starter, usually expressed as a percentage of FLA rating and time. This is a combination of the SCR sizing and heat sink design, both of which are important to the successful operation and longevity of the starter. 500% overload for 30 seconds should be your minimum requirement, more is better. Many are rated for only 350% for 30 seconds. They are OK for some pumps and fans, but typically are inadequate for heavy machinery. Be wary of manufacturers who do not publish these ratings or tell you it doesn't matter, they usually have something to hide!
3) Lastly, look for good motor protection features. Most of the best RVSS starters on the market now include very good motor protection, as good or better than many very expensive stand-alone protection relays. The extra $50-100 they may cost you will be money well spent.
"Venditori de oleum-vipera non vigere excordis populi"