Tek-Tips is the largest IT community on the Internet today!

Members share and learn making Tek-Tips Forums the best source of peer-reviewed technical information on the Internet!

  • Congratulations MintJulep on being selected by the Eng-Tips community for having the most helpful posts in the forums last week. Way to Go!

Trench in Existing Slab on Grade

Status
Not open for further replies.

bookowski

Structural
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
983
Location
US
I'm sure this is a typical detail but I haven't dealt with it and could use a point in the right direction.

I have an industrial building with an existing 6in. slab on grade. They want to put in a trench for electric, about 75 linear feet. The trench is supposed to be 6" deep x 6" wide, and have a flush removable cover. I took a look online and saw some precast systems but they seemed like overkill.

I've never done this but I was thinking of the attached sketch. Basically overcut the existing slab and provide a concrete beam, with a formed trench in the top and expansion/movement joint at each side. This will have forklifts traveling over it so it will see some decent point loads.

Is this overkill? Is there a typical detail for this that makes more sense? Do the joints at the side make sense or would it be better to provide only a normal control joint in the top 1/4 of the joint. Thanks.
 
I would want to cast the new trench with about a 2" ledge for the slab to bear on. Just requires a bit of detailed hand excavation.
 
I like that idea. So hand excavate out a bit and cast the trench below the ex. slab on each side. What about joints between the new/old?
 
What about the joint between new and old? Pour new against existing and then provide a normal control joint where the two meet?
 
Yup... but, I would slope the excavation a bit and make the trench a bit wider at the top to accommodate the sloped sides... less of a hassle of granular base sloughing in.

Dik
 
Hang on, Option 2 lost the seat for the slab. You can slope the sides a bit if necessary, but keep the seat.

I would keep the joint as you showed it before. The compressible material full depth is not really necessary, but a bond breaker is. Maybe just a sheet of plastic. Then form the recess at the top for a backer rod and sealant. High modulus polyurethane sealant to manufacturer's specification as to joint geometry and backer rod.
 
Seat is back, with sloped sides - how about this?
 
Pretty much the detail I would use, except the soil slope may be a little more towards 60 degrees for drawing just to accommodate whatever sloughing occurs.

Dik
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Part and Inventory Search

Sponsor

Back
Top