Swimming Pool

[slickdeals]

Folks,
I am going to be designing a project which will have an elevated Olympic size swimming pool supported on piles. On either side of the pool will be a building structure with bleachers/canopies/parking etc.

Are there any design documents/words of wisdom in designing such structures.

1. Is it better to keep the tank separate from the structure?
2. Are there any benefits to tying the slab at the pool level with the retaining wall?
3. What kind of typical reinforcing details are used for water-tightness?
4. Is it common to have pilasters or will a 12 to 14" wall work? The pool wall is 9' deep and my research tells me that the depth of water is 6'-7".

Thanks

 

[Bobber1]

Chlorene is very corrosive (if they still use it).

 

[ash060]

They will coat the swimming pool to provide the necessary surface and smooth edges.

Usually just provide concrete box to put there pool in. Keep the slab level and they will slope the topping.

I would provide shear key and waterstop at the slab elevation.

Do not use pilasters.

 

[racookpe1978]

I have a limited structural background, so take this question as a way to instruct me in the subtleties of concrete piling design, but the swimming pool will obviously be full of water.

Most of the time.

What happens to the fill under the piles and the piling bases when it is unloaded and the earth rebounds vertically. Won't that upwards movement (not usually seen in a building) start cracks in the pool "containment" concrete?

 

[countervail]

Depends on all kind of things.

We just completed a pool in the UK with a reinforced concrete box detailed to resist the passage of water (its waterproof really but some minor water level changes are acceptable hence resist)

In the UK the codes are BS8007 for waterproof concrete now replaced with the relevant EC section.

1. I would have preferred to keep the tank separate from the structure you get a lot of pipes etc for the filtration system etc and its a pain to detail bars around the fittings . A separate tank is a bit expensive though considering what that whatever is retaining the soil is also in effect a tank.

2. At the bottom yes, you can balance any passive pressures from one side of the pool to the other for sliding, useful in construction stage and when the pool is empty for cleaning, water shortages etc. At the top not really.

3. Reinforcement details are much like normal, expect closer spaces more steel. You should in theory be able to do it without waterstops / hydrophilic strips in joints but I wouldn't, they don't cost much so there is very little to lose by using them (if you use them at the top of walls around balance channels just watch that they don't swell too much as you haven't got much concrete weight to stop them lifting the concrete, although the rebar should prevent this anyway).

4. Pilasters not a term I know but I expect that means vertical stiffening ribs. I would try and use a straight wall as the formwork easier and the reinforcement is easier (easy reinforcement is waterproof reinforcement, if you are going that way).


Oh and no through ties (pretty obvious) although our contractor in his wisdom decided that without through ties he need to drill holes 85% of the way through the walls at the upper levels to fix some shuttering, therefore 85% less likely to be water proof.

If you are using steelwork for roofs etc Corus do good guidance on corrosion prevent paints, If timber the GTA give good guidance.


Oh I don't know if its true but Olympic swimming pools need to be 50m so the concrete box needs to be 50m + two lots of tile and grout. I heard about a pool that cant be used for competitions as it 49.99m because of this.