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Skewed beam connection

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JStructsteel

Structural
Joined
Aug 22, 2002
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1,467
Location
US
Got a detail with a skewed (2)-2x12 beam into the side of a HSS 10 beam. Im leaning to a plate at the bottom to support it. My reactions are light, 400lbs DL, and 900lbs LL. Im not finding a hanger that can be skewed to support it, its 54deg off the HSS beam centerline.

Once in place, the 2x12 joists will keep it from moving around, and the couple GRK screws to offer some uplift resistance.

Thoughts?

 
 https://files.engineering.com/getfile.aspx?folder=71d1dbb9-f034-4698-a2de-226655f39d0f&file=Skewed_Beam_Detail.pdf
A thin bearing plate would likely work for the small loads. You might want to add a small plate to the side to stabilise it.

Rather than think climate change and the corona virus as science, think of it as the wrath of God. Do you feel any better?

-Dik
 
If it's only skewed in one axis, I agree with dik, I'd add a bent plate to the oblique angled side. L3x3x12GA or similar. PAF or weld on HSS side, screws to the wood beam. Why? Because lots of wood beams are connected at the side and it's reliable, whereas screws from the bottom is not widely used. It will also help slightly w/ uplift.

My first thought was to use a flitch plate (or two vertical side plates) and thru-bolt it. That's more of a conventional solution. But your solution is good; I might use this idea.
 
Thanks, I thought about a plate on the side, but with the joists framing in from both sides, do you think its overkill, I dont see it going anywhere.

 
Did you check end distance on the screw? Looks a bit short on the detail.
 
Does it need to be flush framed? Can you use a W section with nailers in the web and regular 'skewed' joist hangers?

Rather than think climate change and the corona virus as science, think of it as the wrath of God. Do you feel any better?

-Dik
 
Yes, a plate on the side might be overkill. It doesn't cost much extra to add it, but I see no problem and it will be braced from torsion by the joists. I just like to tie things well from pulling out axially, after seeing that kind of thing happen in old buildings, but I think it's fine with those two screws.

Just curious, why is the roof/floor deck higher than the joists, supported by a flat wood plate?
 
Word of caution on the plate on the side - wood shrinkage can cause splitting. Easy to detail out but often overlooked.
 
PhamENG, I have not checked screw capacities yet, just showing in concept.

Dik, we are going with HSS sections, this is a outdoor seating for a small baseball field, trying to not have areas that can hold birds, etc.

Perhaps a Simpson L angle, they offer some lateral and uplift capacity, but not alot. Also only light gauge so could deform if pulled axially.
 
JS said:
so only light gauge so could deform if pulled axially.
Can confirm this is a real thing. Was at a site visit regarding a ceiling crack in a 1970s home. I expected, based on the pictures, to find metal plate connected trusses in the roof due to the long open area where this crack occurred. Turns out it was a raftered roof (I'm surprised they still did those in the 70s in my locale) and the ceiling joists were flush framed to a beam with just light gauge hangers. The hangers did not have the axial capacity and all the falnges were bent from the axial tension. It was a surprising one to me, but enlightening.
 
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