Sorry didn't finish my last post. After you get the points flagged on the west property line, you need to measure 50 feet east of your first point. This point will be 100, 150. From this point go north 50 feet. This point will be 150, 150. Which means the point is 150 feet east and 150 feet north of the sw corner of the property. Your grid lines should be perpendicular to the property lines, or as close as possible. Your grid should look something like this.
x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x
x x x x x x x
Each "x" above would indicate a measured point. The bottom left x would be point 100, 100. The next x above the bottom left x would be 150, 100. The x to the right of the bottom left x would be 100, 150. I hope this is clear. I can't think of any other way of explaining it. What you would need to do after you have all the points flagged is set your level up in a place where you can see all of the points. Start at the bottom left point and shoot the elevation. This elevation is relative to a hypothetical elevation you would give to the point where you setup your optical level.
Example: Hypothetical elevation of point below optical level - 100 feet
You look through your level at the level rod and you see 5 feet.
The elevation of the point the level rod is sitting on is 100-5 = 95 feet.
Most level rods measure in meters or feet and 10ths of feet. So if you see two marks above 5 feet, this is actually 5.2 feet not 5 feet 2 inches.
This is actually a very simple and inexpensive way to get the elevations you are looking for. However, if your parcel of land has undulating terrain, this method will not give you a very precise topographic map. If your land has varying terrain, you will have to get an elevation at the top of all hills and the toe of each hill. This is possible with a sight level, however, getting the distance and direction of these points from your starting point will be difficult.