I am building a 33 ft x 31 ft. garage with a radiant slab. The sandwich will be 4” washed stone, vapor barrier, 2” foam, radiant tubing stapled to the foam, 6x6 WWF on top and maybe a rebar grid on some chairs and 4-5” of concrete. Based on the layout of the doors, it would be nice to break the slab up into 6 chunks of 11 ft x 15.5 ft.
My question involves control joints. I am going to epoxy coat the slab if it makes any difference in your answers. I will also discontinue the WWF and rebar at the joints. I am concerned about using a soft-cut saw as it may hit a line if they are not careful. I have used keyway on previous slabs and it worked ok but the concrete starting chipping adjacent to it. I have also done two checkerboard pours that worked amazingly well but I don’t know that I want the expense of that on this project as I need to rent a pump twice and the labor basically doubles. My other thought is to use tooled joints but don’t have too much experience with them other than I always see cracks running adjacent to them in tract homes. Maybe if they did a 2” deep joint, that would be more effective. Is that even possible? I welcome your thoughts and ideas. My other question involves the safety of the piping during the concrete placement. Will the WWF somehow puncture the tubing with all the workers scurrying around on top of it? I have heard a few isolated cases of that.
Thanks
My question involves control joints. I am going to epoxy coat the slab if it makes any difference in your answers. I will also discontinue the WWF and rebar at the joints. I am concerned about using a soft-cut saw as it may hit a line if they are not careful. I have used keyway on previous slabs and it worked ok but the concrete starting chipping adjacent to it. I have also done two checkerboard pours that worked amazingly well but I don’t know that I want the expense of that on this project as I need to rent a pump twice and the labor basically doubles. My other thought is to use tooled joints but don’t have too much experience with them other than I always see cracks running adjacent to them in tract homes. Maybe if they did a 2” deep joint, that would be more effective. Is that even possible? I welcome your thoughts and ideas. My other question involves the safety of the piping during the concrete placement. Will the WWF somehow puncture the tubing with all the workers scurrying around on top of it? I have heard a few isolated cases of that.
Thanks