I'm clueless on the filter stuff but I can tell you you're making a mistake to consider an absolute pressure gauge. I can assure you that no one, besides yourself, will understand why an absolute pressure gauge reads almost 15psi when there's "no pressure". It will be broken from the day it is installed until the day someone breaks it trying to zero it.
The times we've sold one I'm the guy who gets to (try to) explain why it isn't broken. I've heard heated statements that it has to be broken because it shows 14-15psi at atmospheric pressue. "There ain't no pressure there." (verbatim). If they're lucky, I get there before they've tried to zero the pointer. If not, it's probably toast because the last guy who knew what a pointer puller was retired in 1989.
Be my guest, go ahead and try explaining and they'll look at you like you're from Mars and tell you don't know one part of your anatomy from another (in colloquial terms). You're telling someone who knows darn well that when that noisy vacuum pump runs that it creates a vacuum but that new fangled gauge is reading positive? Uh-huh. Who's the crazy one? "Who you callin' a liar, boy?" Go ahead use that college talk, "measures with respect to . . ." That'll impress 'em. Been there, done that too many times (my company sells pressure gauges and transmitters).
Given the relatively minor effect that barometric pressure changes have on what you're trying to read, I'd go with the previous recommendation (lilliput1) for a gage pressure compound pressure gauge that displays vacuum and positive pressure on the same scale, vacuum as negative (minus to the shop boys) and positive pressure as positive.
I've found that operators do tend to understand compound gauges, especially if they've ever messed with automobiles and intake manifold pressure. Vacuum is minus. Positive pressure positive. "Now you're talking sense, pal."
If you need an absolute value, use a compound or vacuum gauge and then look up the barometric pressure for your locale on the web and make a (relatively minor) correction to the gage pressure reading.
2) I, too, don't know what sodium sulphide is, but if it eats 316 stainless you'll need a diaphragm seal to isolate and protect the gauge internals from the process. This is critically important, as benign as sodium sulphide might be, you don't want it coming out the gauge case because the bourdon tube failed and leaks.
If the medium is sticky or tends to solidify the medium could clog up the socket or the bourdon tube. Another reason that an isolating diaphragm seal might be needed.
If a diaphragm seal is needed, let the vendor do it. It takes a 'hard' vacuum pump and some skill to backfill the system and seal it. It's not something the ordinary shop is equipped to handle.
Diaphragm seals are 'filled systems' and either Mr. Boyle or Mr. Charles (can't remember which) informs us that a pressure measuring filled system will also act like a thermometer, meaning process temperature will affect the pressure readings. Fact of life.
Same caveats apply to differential measurements. And while I'm pontificating, taking two gage pressure measurements and subtracting them is only an approximation of differential pressure (DP), when one considers the accuracy of most people's pressure gauges and the skill needed to read two locations at the same time.
3) Claimer: Please, please buy a $100 pressure gauge from my company at $22 gross margin so I can retire tomorrow on my $1.50 commission.
Dan