Post drill and injection grout/epoxy of wall 2

[Rogg53]

Hi All,

I have a situation where the contractor is building a train depot and have casted the soffit slab but missed a wall under the depot slab. The main problem is that the contractor has also not left any hanging starter bars for the construction of the wall.

I understand that there are post drill injection grout/epoxy systems, but my question is that most grouts are flowable so how do you grout it without all the grout leaking out?

Is there a injection system that can be used with a patch-up method instead to ensure the grout stays where it is?

Thanks!

 

[Toby43]

Is the wall to be concrete? How will you pour wall under existing slab?
Maybe core from above at intervals to allow concrete placement through slab above. Cored holes would also play the role of your starters. Location of R/F in slab could be an issue though.

 

[Rogg53]

Concrete will be poured from a concrete pump truck mounted on the soffit to a stationary pump below the soffit slab via a permanent opening and up towards the top of the wall.

We will not allow coring of the slab, as the slab is 1.8m thick and have up to 8 layers of bottom & top rebar, we cannot allow the rebar to be affected via coring of the slab.

 

[EZBuilding]

Hilti has some of these drip guard's available. I have not seen them in action before, but they look like they could get the job done.

Link

 

[BridgeSmith]

For overhead anchorages grout probably isn't an option, but there are several epoxy adhesive anchorage systems for bars or threaded rods that are suitable for overhead installations. Hilti, Simpson, Mitek (formerly USP), and ITW Red Head each have products suitable for overhead anchoring.

 

[Ingenuity]

Overhead adhesive dowels are the most difficult to install correctly - not just due to the 'leaking' of the adhesive - but also due to entrapment of air during epoxy installation, resulting in possible reduced capacity. However, using 'piston-plugs' (HILTI and SIMPSON and others, sell them) greatly makes overhead injection easier to reduce air entrapment.

For an alternative, I have personally got my 'hands dirty' in similar situations to yours, however, I through-drilled the slab (from top of slab), cleaned the holes with wire brush, installed the dowels and secured them from below (tie wire, golf tees etc), installed the new wall (below) rebar and forms, placed the concrete, then after the concrete below has cured, injected low-viscosity epoxy resin from the top of slab. Worked well.

 

[Rogg53]

Thanks All.

Have found a product by HILTI which does the trick.

But just a curious question (I'm also asking HILTI and waiting a reply), the room have a 4 hour fire compartment rating. Just curious if these products can provide that?

Thanks!