Botrerta...
Rivet type, hole sizes and sequence and of riveting will make big differences in thin skinned structure repair.
a few facts...
Driven rivets "swell" into the holes generating compression force that will cause thin sheet metal to strain slightly. Roughly speaking, sheet metal thickness less than 1/3 of driven rivet Dia will cause noticible distortion around the rivet head.
Blind-rivets replacing driven rivets [assuming that BR's are structurally adequate] will require holes to be oversized and the appropriate OS BR installed. When this occurs, conventional "temp fasteners" may not expand and grip the oversized holes properly ...allowing sheet-metal layers to "slip". Even slight [un-noticed] movement of the sheet metal will cause hole centers to misalign: subsequent sheet-metal difficulties will occur when [blind] rivets force the hole-centers back into alignment. If BRs are substituted for conventional rivets, and the structure must be drilled before-hand [IE: deburring], then recommend using expanding nose "CLECOS" [spring-loaded or wing-nut driven]: they will swell into the OS holes and insure holes remain aligned through-out the drilling and riveting process. Note: thin sheet metal requires using a LOT of CLECOS to minimize distortion during drilling and riveting.
Riveting sequence is also critical. I have seen thin sheet metal structure distort due to riveting strain, when rivets are driven one-after-the-other in a convenient "line-pattern". There are two "good" riveting sequences for sheet-metal, depending on the ecomplexity of the structure, as follows.
NOTE: I say again... use LOTS of tight fitting CLECOS [MINIMUM of (1) CLECO every (5) holes] to rigidly hold the structure together during the riveting process. If any parts HAVE TO be removed for accesibilty, then do so ONLY after the entire structure has been firmly CLECOED into alignment. The more CLECOS, the better.
(A) Complex structure: install rivets using a typical crossing-pattern [criss-cross] sequence. Remove CLECOS and finish the riveting job. NOTE: after the first "round" of rivets is installed, CLECO any/all removed parts in-position, to insure alignment has not changed. IF OK, then remove these parts and continue "shooting rivets". If NOT OK, then figure-out what slipped, why, and take corrective actions. Finally, install the "removed" parts using the same techniques as the basic structure [CLECOS and cross-pattern riveting].
(B) Simple structure. Install rivets adjacent to every CLECO to "tack" the structure into alignment. Next, install all rivets in small adjacent patterns progressing from the center outwards... AND/OR fore-aft. Remove all clecos and finish riveting work. Reinstall [CLECO] the removed parts last, using these same methods.
I think You can see some potential deficiencies in Your process based on my comments [above]. Try the methods listed for improved workmanship. Regards, Wil Taylor