Hardness testing is difficult due to the thinness of the anodize, its brittleness & the relatively soft aluminum substrate. Microhardness testing can be done by cross-sectioning, mounting in Bakelite, polishing and then Knoop or Vickers microhardness testing.
Easy method: Rub with a piece of known hard anodized aluminum. The hard anodize will scratch the conventional anodize. Note, however, that hard anodize on some alloys such as 2024 is considerably softer than on 6061.
Another method is thickness testing, as hard anodize is typically 0.002" thick on wrought alloys, while Type II (per MIL-A-8625F) is often about 0.0008". But, easiest if you have an eddy current thickness tester.
Also, if non-dyed, alloys develop particular colors when anodized, e.g., 7075 becomes olive-bronze color. Also, hard anodize is less bright and due more difficult to dye lighter colors. See 'Anodizing Reference Guide'
Re "Seems to be some confusion in the industry, with some decorative anodizing being a poor substitute for Hard Coat."
-- What's your QA system? Don't you order hard anodized parts from an approved supplier per MIL-A-8625F, Type III (or AMS 2469) and get certs? Initial survey the supplier, then every once in a while drop in to check their lab analyses, especially Taber abrasion test results.
Lockheed Martin approved suppliers for hard anodize per MIL-A-8625F (note: they have more than one list):
MIL-A-8625F (& Amendment):