Hi 317069,
Good points.
I wasn't thinking clearly -- please pardon me, it was late at night. I meant to say that the diffuser or other objects are 9°F++ cooler than the room air dewpoint, not that the diffuser was warmer or cooler than the supply air. Of course, a diffuser's temperature can't vary much from the air that is blowing through it.
![[blush] [blush] [blush]](/data/assets/smilies/blush.gif)
I was chief engineer for a humidity-sensor manufacturer and also a controls guy, which makes that write-up above especially embarrassing. I hope my old co-workers don't see it!
To think better about your first two points: Usually, this mode of condensation is only a short-term problem on start of occupied period after unoccupied setback. The room air and the room fixtures and walls have warmed near the setback temperature, often 80°++ with a high dewpoint in the air. The diffuser, being a thin piece of metal, quickly cools down to the supply air temperature. It has the warm, humid room air induced toward it from directly below as the diffuser spews the supply air to the sides. It is then that the room air's high dewpoint of 65° or higher leads to condensation on the diffuser that might be as low as 50°F with a DX system.
If you're getting a good long coanda-effect air flow, the cold supply air running across the ceiling and down the walls may cool their surfaces quickly to below the room air dew point and do some sweating too as the warm room air swirls into them. Your idea of a cool-heat-cool to dry the supply air will certainly help. The dripping will still be there, though, if the dry-bulb of the diffuser and other solid objects is brought down too quickly and the room air is still warm and moist.
When the room air finally gets cool enough, all becomes dry again.
If the condensation problem lasts all day, the problem is usually because of a high latent load in the room. In the mornings when I have a hot shower, it rains a bit in my bathroom and the only real way to stop it is to shut off the unit. We once found windows with broken-out panes in Hawaii. That was a bad one. Kitchens can be bad, especially in Italian restaurants with huge pots of boiling pasta all day.
To your third and fourth points, it is very difficult to reset supply air on small DX units. Putting face-and-bypass in a packaged unit would be quite a challenge, I think. I'm not sure if mixing some return directly into the supply will work without causing lots of condensation at the junction point. That's a tough one.
In a commercial space like a small store, sometimes the only good solution is to eliminate setback or maybe decrease the setback room temperature setting until you find a point that will fix it. I think that if the room moisture is coming from a source in the room or a leaky envelope, monkeying with the supply air temperature won't do the job without under-cooling the space. I'm not sure how to solve those. Maybe a room dehumidifier?
A problem I never could solve happens in surgery rooms where open-heart surgery is done, it's the reverse of cold supply air and a warm room. The surgeons tell me that they want the room temperature down to as low as possible. They would like 40°F, but the best I could ever do with controls was about 50°F. Maybe a refrigeration system in the room? Anyway, at the end of the case when they're closing the patient up, they want the room up as warm as possible as rapidly as possible. Usually there are big steam coils in the air handler. The really hot supply air running around the room with all that cold metal and cold walls makes a wet mess. Somehow the nurses and doctors just deal with it.
If anybody knows a solution to the operating room one, I'd sure appreciate hearing it!
Thanks much for your kindly-put correction.
Best to you,
Goober Dave
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