Here is what I do when a pump is required:
I figure if we are going to be paying for a pump, I want to get the biggest bang for my buck. You should be able to determine capacity pretty easy. If you have all light hazard, you may only need a 250 gpm pump at most. If you have some OH2 areas in there, and you can use the QR reductions, you may need a 300 or 400 gpm pump. You will have to calculate your areas without the pump to determine the best flow rate. I like to choose the smallest pump I can because of the fittings and valves that go in a pump room. Sure, you could just go with a 500 gpm pump and be fine. But, that is all 6". If you go with a 400 gpm pump and can do just as well, all of your pump room devices will be 4". That is a significant savings.
Once flow is set, you are pretty much paying for pressure or horsepower. Find out from the electrical contractor how much horsepower you have available. At that point, choose the greatest pressure you can for that horsepower and calculate the system. If you are fine with your pipe sizing, then just finish it up. If the pipe sizing is very small, see what the difference is in costs if you drop the horsepower rating a bit. It may be that you save $5000 in pump costs, but only see a material increase of $3000 for a net savings of $2000.
Lastly, be sure that your pump churn pressures + static pressures do not exceed the rating of your components. If churn + static is 185 psi and your components are rated to 175 psi, then you need to drop your pump pressures.
One more thing. Are there fire hydrants down stream of the fire pump? If so, you have to take into account the outside hose allowance flowing through your pump.
I hope that helps.
Travis Mack
MFP Design, LLC
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