tcp2000
Automotive
- Jan 14, 2002
- 2
My problem is, while trying to remove the cylinder heads from a 1993 Isusu Rodeo I managed the break one of the 10mm bolts that attach the heads to the block. The bolt broke off about 2 inches inside the block. I tried a bolt extractor and was unsuccessful at removing the broken bolt. Both the heads and the block are composed of aluminum and I believe the factory bolts are also.
My idea is, if I am unable remove the broken bolt I would like to tap (currently untapped) the first 2 inches of the bolt hole to accept the next larger (and much shorter) fastener and leave the broken bolt in the block. The head has an opening large enough to accept a larger fastener (without drilling it) than was being used.
My question is, why did the engineers use bolts that protrude 3.5 inches into the block and only have 1.5 inches of thread at the very end? What is the advantage of using long fasteners with threads at the end verses fasteners that are shorter but threaded all along the length? Also can I “get away” with tapping the existing bolt hole (it is in the middle of the block not on the end of it) to accept a shorter fastener without having the head leak or warp at a later time? Any help in this will be greatly appreciated.
The engine is a 1993 3.2 liter V-6, dual overhead cams, 4 valves per cylinder, aluminium block and heads. The fasteners in question have a torque of 47 ft lbs.
My idea is, if I am unable remove the broken bolt I would like to tap (currently untapped) the first 2 inches of the bolt hole to accept the next larger (and much shorter) fastener and leave the broken bolt in the block. The head has an opening large enough to accept a larger fastener (without drilling it) than was being used.
My question is, why did the engineers use bolts that protrude 3.5 inches into the block and only have 1.5 inches of thread at the very end? What is the advantage of using long fasteners with threads at the end verses fasteners that are shorter but threaded all along the length? Also can I “get away” with tapping the existing bolt hole (it is in the middle of the block not on the end of it) to accept a shorter fastener without having the head leak or warp at a later time? Any help in this will be greatly appreciated.
The engine is a 1993 3.2 liter V-6, dual overhead cams, 4 valves per cylinder, aluminium block and heads. The fasteners in question have a torque of 47 ft lbs.