SgtYui:
Have you been driving these same wheel loads over the edge of the existing slab, with no ill effects? There is a concrete cutting device (cutting equipment, water cooled) which looks much like a chain saw, with a bar and diamond impregnated chain for cutting the conc. At about the same elevation that you show your dowels, I would plunge this into the existing slab edge about 4 - 5", btwn. the #4 ties @ 8" which run up the face/edge of the existing slab. These slots in the existing slab get a 8 or 10" long steel bar which fits the cut slot. These are your shear mechanisms and distribute/tolerate much more shear than a round dowel will. Pavement designers (DOT’s., etc.) are using these shear plates instead of dowels at pavement joints for this very reason. You will also need some dowels in tension to tie the two slabs together. Then the controlling shear cap’y. becomes what the bottom half height of the existing slab edge, plus the #4 ties @ 8" will allow, as some sort of a corner break-off (break-out) load. In the new ramp slab, you should also extend/turn the rebars, shown in side view, down as ties at the edge of this new slab, on either side of each of the new shear bars. Check this new slab and ties just as for the existing slab, as mentioned above. Tool the top of the joint and fill it with a proper joint filler/sealer system. Then try your high strength grout, but I don’t have much hope of that lasting long. It might get moved and broken up by the wheel loadings.