Cutting up a Corrugated steel pipe 1

[WARose]

I got a corrugated steel pipe that is in the middle of nowhere I need to cut up to move. The steel thickness is about 1/4" (at worse; the rust is pretty bad).

I can't get at it with any power equipment. A portable torch is (also) out of the question because of the fire danger. Can someone recommend a tool? I saw some shears on-line.....but it was for cable.....don't think that would work here. Thanks (in advance).

 

[r13]

I don't know if you can use this (hydrogen cutting) idea or not. See the link, or browse web for more info. Link

 

[LittleInch]

Pipe cold cutting machine.

Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.

 

[hokie66]

Blow it in place? Get a demolition expert involved to wrap the pipe with some sort of shaped charges.

 

[bridgebuster]

@WARose - out of curiosity, what is this pipe in the way of?

 

[WARose]

@BridgeSmith/HotRod: Thanks for the tool info. I'm going to measure this thing again and see if the corrosion is enough (in some spots) to get me down in the 14-16 ga range with this. At that point the DeWalt option gets better (if I am willing to risk the splashing on it). Quite a jump in cost from their 18 to 14 ga tool eh?

@ bridgebuster: It's an issue on several fronts.....but primarily it's becoming a issue in every major rain with stuff backing up in front of it. It's had a partial collapse on (where else?) the upstream side. But like I said, there are a bunch of issues it could create if it stays in there. I never should have put it in. (But that was a long time ago (30 years to be exact).)

 

[BridgeSmith]

Cordless tools usually handle getting water splashed on them fairly well. As long as the motor doesn't get underwater, it should do fine. I've left my cordless drill out in heavy rain and used it right after. Other than it spit water out at me for a while, it worked fine. I'd buy one that comes with a warranty, or rent one, just in case.

That said, I highly recommend gas-powered chop saw where you have access to use it. If you start on one side, as close to the ground as you can get, it will only throw sparks on the ground right below it, until it cuts through; then all the sparks will be inside the pipe. You'll save yourself alot of time if you can do the bulk of it with the saw.

Rod Smith, P.E., The artist formerly known as HotRod10

 

[human909]

This is starting to sound like a job for Macgyver!

Given explosives are out, Macgyver would go for chemical attack. Time to pull out the nitric acid!

 

[LittleInch]

This needs a drawing or a photo so we can understand what you're trying to do.

You've been around here a long time so know how frustrating it gets when the OP drip feeds information or doesn't describe the situation and restrictions.

Could you get a portable air compressor out there? A whole range of options then becomes feasible.

Do you have access all the way around the pipe?

Why are you doing it?

Can't you just plug it?



Remember - More details = better answers
Also: If you get a response it's polite to respond to it.

 

[Ron]

Concrete chain saw with a couple of extra chains or concrete saw with diamond blade....fewer sparks than abrasive blade

 

[Denial]

WARose.

This is is totally off-topic, and probably contrary to Eng-Tips' rules.[ ] Back in August 2016, in thread 507-412391 which is now closed, you expressed interest in the "dynamic buckling" problem.[ ] If you are still interested in this subject, please contact me via the email address given in my website.

 

[WARose]

Thanks Denial....I'll check it out.