Well I suppose the easy answer is that you define a road profile and a speed at which you wish to avoid bottoming out, then build a model to select appropriate spring and damper rates.
That's the easy answer, and it works quite well for race vehicles and other cases where 10-20 year life is not required.
For real cars in practice you (a) come up with a set of load cases, and then (b) hack together a suspension geometry (including bump stops) and then (c) check that the body structure doesn't fall apart.
Then you stuff around with everything until it works.
So here's a rule of thumb for a road going car:
Jounce travel (metal to metal) : at least 50 and preferably 100 mm
Rebound travel: Ideally sufficient that in a 1g corner all four wheels are still on the road.
Of course the problem is that your worst input, kerb strike or chuck hole, is reacted by lifting the car body as well as deflecting the suspension, so the analysis gets multi dimensional very quickly.
This also ignores the way that you set the road spring rates. So far as I am aware the best way to do this as a starting point is to say that the rear axle frequency should be a certain multiple of the front axle frequency, and that the front axle frequency should be between 1 and 2 Hz, for a normal car. 1 for luxury 2 for sports. f=1/(2*pi)*sqrt(spring stiffness referred to wheel centre/sprung mass at that wheel). Note that very few geometries give you the same spring rate at the wheel centre as the actual spring rate, typical values are .6 (appalling) to 0.9. A kinematic diagram of the suspension can be used to determine this.
The front to rear ratio is set by the 'flat ride' criterion, whereby the pitch response to a step input is minimised at a selected speed by setting the rear frequency slightly higher than the front's. A 2 DoF model is necessary to get this right. Typically Ffront=1.2 Hz, Frear =1.5 Hz.
Having said that this criterion is pretty much irrelevant for sports versions of road going cars. Cheers
Greg Locock