SAITAETGrad...
1. I am not a fan of inserting 3xx CRES sheet 1/4H and above in any repair with aluminum structure for reasons not mentioned.
The dissimilar mix of CRES and aluminum can be dealt with using coatings for isolation,
Aluminum: CCC or anodic coatings + epoxy primer W corrosion protective pigments.
CRES Sheet preferred.
Cadmium-plating + post-plating chromate treatment [or phosphate] + epoxy primer W corrosion protective pigments.
(or)
Zinc-nickel alloy plating + post-plating chromate treatment [or phosphate] + epoxy primer W corrosion protective pigments
(or)
CRES Sheet OK...
Abrasive clean/passivate per AMS2700 + epoxy primer W corrosion protective pigments.
Assemble structure and install fasteners 'wet' with sealant [threaded or lock-bolt]... except install aluminum** rivets 'wet' with epoxy primer W corrosion protective pigments. Fillet around repair edges with sealant squeeze-out.
**WARNINGS.
Solid rivets should always be installed 'wet' with primer'. Sealant is thick/gooey and can interfere with rivet swelling during bucking... resulting in a loose bucked rivet.
RE: installation of CRES or any hard metal into joints with aluminum. Steel/CRES/Ti burrs are extremely sharp and damaging to aluminum structure and aluminum rivets shanks [solids or blinds]. Plated or aluminum coated steel CRES or Ti solid-shank fasteners can take a beating/scoring from CRES burrs... but are far tougher than aluminum.
CAREFUL deburring [but not knife-edging] of holes and edges is required to ensure repair 'works' as designed/intended.
The modulus of elasticity of CRES is 3X the modulus of aluminum... careful thickness matching is required to ensure CRES 'plays well' in the joint. Unfortunately the mix of high modulus and the low yield and ultimate strength CRES sheet means that the CRES can actually attract load... then be over stressed.
3. I personally prefer using Titanium 6-Al-4V annealed sheet [common], inserted into joints for the following reasons.
Titanium is just as hard to cut/drill as CRES sheet... and produces sharp burrs also... but that is 'easy' to take care of thru workmanship.
Ti-sheet is 'more compatible' with aluminum... but still needs dissimilar isolation as described above. Typical finish for titanium is chemical cleaning + epoxy primer W corrosion protective pigments.
The modulus of Ti-6Al-4V is ~1.6 X 2xxx & 7xxx aluminum alloys... which results in a better stiffness match... or at least 'not as bad as CRES'. Also the yield and ultimate of this Ti alloy is ~1.8--2.0X that of most high strength aluminum alloys.
4. Some observations/comments.
I worked on F-15s which have a high percentage of titanium alloys in the structure/systems... so titanium sheet/tubing/bar/plate was readily stocked and sheet-metal/machining techs dealt with-it regularly... and NOT so-much CRES.
However... in shops that deal primarily with primarily older aluminum structure, the techs prefer using CRES sheet/tube/bar/plate etc because it is familiar, available, cheep, reliable, etc. The techs and engineers I have worked with in these shops generally 'push-back' against using Ti sheet for repairs... too exotic.
Drilling thru a stack of hard-and soft alloys can produce terrible quality hole in the soft alloys. There are many reasons for this but it is a fact [explanation is a difficult discussion]. Drill-bits geometry/alloys for Steel/CRES/Ti [hard alloys] are generally different relative to drill-bits intended for aluminum [soft alloys]. I recommend drilling/reaming the stack-up with drill bits intended for the hard metal. Also I have MUCH ‘better luck’ [no such-thing] step-up-drilling/reaming thru these stack-ups thru pilot-holes and/or with ‘piloted’ drill-bits and reamers. This approach attains ‘best’ hole quality. See NAS897/NAS898 [reamers], NAS907 [drill bits] and NAS937 [stepped drill-bits].
Regards, Wil Taylor
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