Build a temporary liner, expandable, at the joint, say of sections of steel plate or large diam pipe, or plywood, combined with some hydraulic jacks or wedges and struts. Then, on the outside, surround the joint with with an encasement with stiff 6 bag mix concrete. Immediately before concreting dob onto roughened headwall concrete with a thick "cream" of Portland cement and water. That concrete surface should be bone dry to encourage the paste to enter voids by capillary action. At the head walls insert dowels to help hold the encasement "patch". Possibly include some circular steel re-bar lengths within the "patch". Later for backfilling use a mix of sand-gravel with bentonite at about 20 percent powdered bentonite covering the patch maybe one foot minimum thickness. Also look to using clay backfill beyond that all the way around at each headwall. Of course remove the interior "liner" later. My experience with the cement paste at the contact of new and old concrete is that it is stronger than either (old or new) concrete. To avoid forming on the outside, follow the patch work with the specialized backfilling as it goes from the invert to the crown. Of course if you are not too worried about some leakage, you can skip the concrete and use the sand-gravel-bentonite mix assuming leaks are no problem. Or only use the concrete.