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Birdsmouth I-Joist Cut

GaStruct

GaStruct

Structural
May 20, 2024
81
Saw this gem on site. Can anyone think of a fix that doesn't involve ripping it out and redoing it?

I am thinking maybe blocking between the studs and driving screws through the bottom flange into the blocking?

Boise allows birdsmouth but the bottom flange must be supported.
 

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top flange hangers with up sloped seats add blocking between joists as needed to build up for the hanger depth. Will need to detail the blocking attachments for stability.
 
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You could provide a dropped ledger with beveled top bearing surface. You'll probably want to block the webs in addition to this.
 
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Celt83 said:
top flange hangers with up sloped seats add blocking between joists as needed to build up for the hanger depth. Will need to detail the blocking attachments for stability.
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Interesting idea, I will look into it. Although, the nails in the web would be doing the work - not sure if that satisfies Boise's intent?

atrizzy said:
You could provide a dropped ledger with beveled top bearing surface. You'll probably want to block the webs in addition to this.
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I thought about this too. It would make the wall look weird when finished though.

DaveAtkins said:
I would share the photo with Boise and get their recommendation.
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agreed.
 
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GaStruct said:
I never spec them for rafters but apparently the lumber supplier couldn't get 22' long 2x??
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Around here most places will stock 2x's up to 20 ft. Anything over that and they'll have to order them. Also, 20ft+ long 2x's are rarely straight and guys prefer engineered lumber so my guess is that this install is a combination of those two things.
 
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I talked to 84 Lumber last month - our yard stocks 24' 2x10s and 2x12s, at least. Didn't ask about anything smaller.
 
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Tough one. With the roof already in place, it will be tough to argue that there is not significant DL travelling through that undesirable load path no matter what you do.

Conceptually, you might:

1) Get rid of the plywood.

2) Install some 2X outlooker things that get moment connected to the joist webs and bypass the first bit of the joists.

3) Maybe even cut off the bit of the joist that would be inclined to crack off.

I could see this being pretty tough to do spatially though. Not much room to work in between the joists.
 
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