It doesn't cut fuel completely, but changes the injector pulse width and timing as well as ignition timing to lower engine output.
By creatively changing these two parameters they can decrease the output power and still maintain a proper exhause gas output at the converter. Not very...
you can cut fuel and retard spart simultaniously and still keep your stiochiometric ratio (somewhat) so you don't damage the convertor. Thats exactly what the earlier GM systems did, RABS it think it was called.
Thats interesting as the back of the alternator is sometimes a inch or 2 from the exhaust pipes where the air is hottest and the front faces the cooler incoming air thats gone thru the radiator. But as some have a cover on the back connected to an air duct it makes sense that on that particular...
No, really. Not as much in COP systems , more in the older GM DIS systems. I've actually heard the 'crackle' of spark jumping thru bad insulation from burned wires as far away as 10 feet from the car.
This is why they put warning stickers on cars, warning of lethal voltages.
could be just a bad or internally shorted/carbon tracked coil. I've seen a good coil produce a spark that jumps a 4 inch gap. maybe yours is so weak (but tests fine with an ohmmeter0 that it can only generate a spark under no load that only jumps a gap of .030 inches.
Or maybe just a cracked...
metalguy- Sure I can scan a few pages for ya, but it's only a few degrees, and without a nearly identical resistance between each cylinder you may have early ignition on some cylinders compared to others. Besides, with a resistor plug you have a hotter initial spark instead of a trickle building...
MWPC- you might try this on an MPI systen
Don't try to wire your IAC's in parrellel, just close em off completely and run a pipe between the 2 throttle bodies BEHIND the throttle plates and rig a single IAC motor to feed that pipe. That should keep the idle problem managable. Don't forget to...
not all cars have a pressure pump and accumulator system in the ABS system, at least they didn't when I retired 2 years ago. Sure with the current flashable controllers you can update the software (via satellite now) but unless your driving a 50,000 dollar car your not piloting a fully traction...
MWPC-
Do you ever use min idle spec ?? It basically is a mode in the ECM that forces a fixed timing and closes the IAC completely so that you can adjust the closed throttle position (and base TPS position), otherwise your gonna get starting problems, idle speed fluctuations (hunting), off idle...
gotta love C.O.P. systems,
Try spraying a fine mist of water onto the coils- look for sparks.
look for carbon tracks on your boots
look for vacuum leaks (the biggest offender, and the most overlooked problem)
move coils around and plugs, see if the problem moves
non-resistor plugs aren't a...
good luck. GM tried it a few years ago- was called 'cross fire injection' and was discontinued because it was junk.
The problem your facing is keeping the throttle bodies balanced throughout their operating range and won't be as simple as tying the plates together with a common linkage, you'll...
gijim-
No, no points- but the first thing I did when I bought my car was rip out the fuel management computer and replace the distributer with a stock GM HEI unit with a vacuum advance unit, and I recurved the mechanical advance to match that of the 72 vette (which is where I got the engine)...
Traction control- another system designed for idiots who really don't know how to drive properly.
I've never been a fan of 'drive by wire' and am constantly amazed how some peeps survive their daily commute whilst glued to the cell phone, or tinkering with their radio or nav system. I'm...
the best gasket remover is still a razor blade and elbow grease. I've seen too many mechanics (myself included) destroy heads and intake manifolds with a scotch brite pad- ESPECIALLY aluminum.
The rol-loc bristle disc works pretty good but it's usually a 1 job disc, so it gets expensive...
did you try an external pump with an accumulator ?? If you have an angled bottom tank with the pickup directly in the lowest part of the tank it should feed the external pump without a problem. Then throw in a fuel accumulator to feed the system when the pump cavitates.
