Andy,
I understand where you're coming from. You're looking for the phsyical dimensions to model in the thread. What I found out since starting this thread is that most molded bottle threads are proprietary to the manufacturer of the bottle. There are some standard dimensions. You can get...
Well, the project continues on.
We did design a 28mm cap but that was for a soda bottle.
Now we are onto a 27mm bottle cap for water. This is truly the sports type cap. Weisco is correct. It has a triple lead thread and opens on about a 1/4 turn.
Now I'm looking for these dimensions!!!
Dave,
Many of the posters make valid points but your part is very mold-able. It's just a matter of how much you want to spend on your mold. If you take the time to work with your reputable mold maker or mold designer before you are under the gun, they can recommend some minor improvements to...
I am designing a molded cap for a sports bottle. I am looking for the physical dimensions of a 28mm bottle thread. Any suggestions where I can find those dimensions?
We have a project where we need to machine slots into an already molded part. The material is a teflon filled polypropylene. We have tried many options as far as cutter style, feeds, speeds, etc.. We are trying to minimize the burrs left after machining. Does anyone have some good...
Yes, you can "pre-warp" a part when you KNOW how it is going to warp. We have done this many times on parts with long flat side walls. We know the part is going to suck inward so we will intentionally design the mold with some outward crown to compensate for it.
Knish,
To answer your 2nd question, yes you can injection mold rubber although it is not done very often in an overmolding application. I would go with compression if the design allows for it.
According to my calculations, you would need 153,000 tons of clamp pressure (2.2 tons/sq inch) to conventionally injection mold the part. Then 31,000 square inches of parting line bearing area to keep from crushing your mold which would make your mold about 27 feet square. Not to mention...
Dear BeerB.
I tried to click on your link but it said page not found so I could not view your file.
But if corner radii would be acceptable, vacuum forming would be your most cost effective method. What material thickness are you looking for? Another option would be urethane casting.
EHW is definitely right. Just like a car, a house, a camera, etc..."You get what you pay for". Too many times projects are driven by the cost of the tool and then the molder ends up paying for it on every part. A well designed tool built by a quality shop won't be you cheapest mold, but it...
Mr. Target.
I've seen alot of rules on snap fits but that's a new one to me. I think more important is the type of plastic and if it has somewhere to move to or compress without shearing upon ejejection.
-Doug
