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Steel I-BEAM Equivalent to a 2"by 10" hardwood joist

Steel I-BEAM Equivalent to a 2"by 10" hardwood joist

Steel I-BEAM Equivalent to a 2"by 10" hardwood joist

(OP)
I have a fractured floor joist under my dining room
floor that I want to replace with steel.

The span is 14'-6". What size of commercially available
steel I-Beam should I use?? I'd like to keep the web height
to anything less than 8" and flange width to 2-3"......but the most common type available that will be equal in strength to the wood with a 25% safety factor is all I really need.

RE: Steel I-BEAM Equivalent to a 2"by 10" hardwood joist

Assuming the joist is fractured as you described it can likely be repaired in place which would be lot easier than removal and replacement.  If you want to repair it in place, consider using a piece of 6-inch wide steel flat bar, 3/16 of an inch thick, for the full span.  Drill a 5/16-inch diameter hole, 1-inch of the edge of the plate every 6 inches, top and bottom, staggering the holes by 3 inches from the top and bottom (start the top holes at 3 inches from the end, then drill one hole every 6 inches, and start the bottom holes at 6 inches from the end, then every 6 inches).

Jack the joist back into place and put the plate on one side of the joist with the bottom edge of the plate flush with the bottom of the joist.  Clamp everything in place and drill corresponding 5/16-inch holes in the wood joist, inserting a 5/16-inch corrosion resistant bolt in each hole as drilled.  You will likely need to hammer the bolt through, but this is intentional as you need the fit to be tight.  Place the head of the bolt through the plate side and place a 5/16-inch fender washer on the wood side followed by a lock washer and nut.  Tighten the bolts until the wood fiber starts to compress.

This process is called flitching or flitch-plating the joist.

If the joist is beyond repair, replace it with another wood section.  The steel as a retrofit will be difficult.

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