Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
(OP)
Typically for CMU I just specify wall assembly compressive strength f'm on my structural drawings, which determines permissible combinations of block strength and mortar per TMS602-22 specification table 2.
But ASTM C270 and other sources such as the article below indicate an inverse correlation between portland content and bond strength/moisture permeability, and recommend specifying type N in exterior walls if structural design allows for the decreased allowable compressive strength.
https://www.structuremag.org/wp-content/uploads/20...
International Masonry Institute has been pushing structural engineers to specify higher f'm, switching from default 1500psi to 2000psi or 2500psi, which seems to run somewhat counter to the push for type N mortar.
But ASTM C270 and other sources such as the article below indicate an inverse correlation between portland content and bond strength/moisture permeability, and recommend specifying type N in exterior walls if structural design allows for the decreased allowable compressive strength.
https://www.structuremag.org/wp-content/uploads/20...
International Masonry Institute has been pushing structural engineers to specify higher f'm, switching from default 1500psi to 2000psi or 2500psi, which seems to run somewhat counter to the push for type N mortar.
RE: Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
RE: Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
O or 'K' mortar is really just for work on old structures where the cement content in the mortar can cause damage to older, softer brick walls.
masonrygeek - I'm curious, where did you get the impression that they are trying to reduce embodied carbon? I didn't see a mention of that anywhere.
RE: Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
RE: Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
So meet strength requirements first, then consider the whole design and make decisions that are informed.
There's also something to be said for not getting masons too used to always using high strength mortar. I showed up to a restoration of a historic brick building (1880s) a few months back. They were halfway through repointing. With type S masonry cement. The mason got a deer in the headlights look when I challenged the contractor on use of incorrect mortar.
RE: Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
masonrygeek, as stated in my post and multiple times in the article, the reason for specifying lower strength is "mortar with less cement content provides a better bond to the masonry unit, mitigating or eliminating moisture intrusion into the masonry system". Does not appear we're on the same page here. Different planet perhaps.
RE: Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
In a historic building, you get 2 or 3 wythes of brick, some lathe, and some plaster. That's it. The brick needs to keep most of the water out, and then needs to be able to dry properly in between. Add in modern HVAC in that historic structure to make the interior nice and dry, and you'll be sucking water through that wall like a straw. In some cases, a modern wall is built in a similar fashion. So even though you have modern bricks or block that can use high strength mortar, it may not be the best choice for the performance of the building envelope.
RE: Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
RE: Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
phameng, agreed, there's probably no need for increased water resistance if our system has a water barrier
should we be specifying mortar type on our drawings? for typical projects where structural engineers and architects are too busy to give a rat's ass, I assume field masons just select the cheapest mortar that gets them the f'm specified on our drawings, regardless of how much a system may benefit from better extent of bond?
RE: Am I supposed to specify mortar type M, S, N, or O?
This is going to depend on the job. On a big project with a really good and experienced mason - sure. Give them the latitude to come up with their own wall system design and do prism tests to confirm it will work. There's a lot of cost savings to be had there on the right job.
Smaller jobs or jobs where it's reasonable to assume you're just going to get a residential foundation contractor trying his hand at commercial work? Then you should probably go with the Unit Strength Method. If I remember correctly, the tables stating how to meet that have been removed from the body of the building code and are now in design standards - meaning it's no longer reasonable to assume a mason has knowledge of it or even access to it. So, you would need to spell out the minimum requirements for each component to get to your desired f'm.