The lining will be totally dependent upon the material being stored.  In my tank and pressure vessel experience I have used the following for lining:

  Baked Phenolic
  Epoxies
  Paints
  Rubber Lining
  Glass Flake

All of them were dependent upon our clients chemicals and the operating temperature.  Some of the linings are difficult to work with and will cause you many headaches with your EPA reporting and OSHA safety.  We had all of our Rubber Linings, Baked Phenolics, and Glass Flake linings done "out-of-house".  We used Ameron, Tnemec, and Wilko primers, paints, and epoxies.

On tanks/vessels that required lining, we would install an 18" manway for access into the tank/vessel for our painter.

On lining existing tanks/vessels, this can be messy and/or tricky.  Is there enough metal thickness available per the original design intent?  If not, does customer accept the thickness with new calculations?  Etc...  The most cost effective way would be to sandblast and line the interior with the correct lining.

If you would like more, or additional information, let me know.

Before you line the tanks, make sure that you have enough metal remaining to meet the structural requirements!

thank you, gentlemen, for your comments and insights.

1. PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:

  RUST GRIP is a one-part polyurethane coating that
  combines with atmospheric moisture to cure. Upon curing,
  RUST GRIP provides a protective coating of superior
  adhesion, flexibility and abrasion/impact-resistance. It is
  resistant to chemical solvents and acid splash. Originally
  designed for metal surfaces, RUST GRIP demonstrates
  excellent adhesion to wood, concrete, fiber glass and many
  other substrates. RUST GRIP is designed for the
  encapsulation of and adherence to tightly-bonded surfaces
  of lead-based and other toxic paints as well as rusted
  surfaces. This unique ability is accomplished by the curing
  mechanism of the base polymer. The coating (having a low
  initial viscosity) wets the rusty surface, then penetrates to
  the foundation of the rust's origin where curing begins. The
  polymer literally begins to swell, developing an interlocking
  network between the pores of the surface and the coating.
  RUST GRIP is highly recommended as a base coat for
  SUPER THERM (liquid ceramic insulation).  No pot life, no catalyzation, no
  two-part mixing. Can substitute for zinc-rich primer
  requiring no white sand-blasting. Can be applied over
  rusted surfaces after loose/flaking material is removed.
  High humidity quickens dry/cure cycle.

  2. APPLICATION
  Can power wash with solvent wipe down, light commercial
  blast, or power hand tool to remove loose flake and debris
  before applying. Can use power tool (within the guidelines
  of Clean Air Act) with vacuum to prep lead-based paints
  (as discussed at Steel Structures Painting
  Council--SSPC--. meeting March 15-17 attended by
  EPA and NIOSH) before applying RUST GRIP over
  lead-based paints. Possible alternative to abatement of
  lead paints. Surfaces should be clean, dry and sound.
  Existing surface dirt, oil, tar, grease and film should be
  removed from surface by approved methods
  (TSP-Tri-Sodium Phosphate or equivalent) prior to
  application of RUST GRIP. MUST BE COMPLETELY
  DRY.

 We have solved similar problems in containment tanks with the Greater Vancouver Regional District incinerators.  They had to shut down every 3-4 months to do maintenance on their tanks thus an ongoing costly affair.  We were able to not only stop the rust caused by condensation/acid deterioration we were also able to stop the condensation from develloping by using our liquid ceramic insulation as a top coat.