That's a Makerbot... The granddaddy of 3D printer companies. Surely there is a support forum somewhere. I don't see one on their hyperactive website but likely there's a Google forum or a Yahoo forum.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/makerbot-users

http://3dprintboard.com/forumdisplay.php?17-MakerBot-Forum

Here's a Replicator User's manual that will likely have something useful for your issue in the "troubleshooting" section.

MakerBot_Replicator_2X_Troubleshooting_Maintenance.pdf

I believe if your head isn't flying high enough over the work it blocks the flow.

Keith Cress
kcress - http://www.flaminsystems.com

I had problems with the Replicator. Many things that you REALLY need to know and rules that you REALLY need to follow.

Support assumed that I am an idiot, but was obviously used to idiots. So we got it working. A few points:

1. Do the alignment very carefully. Turning a now slowly means slowly. Don't do the alignment when you are in a hurry or after an argument with Missus. Or anyone.

2. Set the printer on a stable surface. No good if the surface flexes. Some IKEA (sorry for that, I am a Swede) tables are not the best when it comes to stability. You really have to tighten the screws - and retighten them.

3. Make sure that the filament is clean. If dust accumulates in the extruder, you will have problems.

4. Some distributors deliver an extra little nozzle that shall go in the extruder before the filament is introduced. That nozzle has a sponge-like thing inside (with some oil, I think) and is supposed to keep dust and dirt away from the extruder's interior. Be very careful with that sponge! The sponge came loose and went into the extruder so it was all clogged. Couldn't remove it even with a crochet needle. That is when I asked support for help and they sent me a new machine. The sponge came loose on that one, too. So, I run without it now and does the filament cleaning with a piece of cloth (with oil) that I apply just before entering the guide tubing.

5. Never experiment with heat or resolution before you got a bit up on the learning curve. Too many unknowns and the feeling that you have a crap machine isn't good for you. One needs to build confidence when starting to use a new technique.

6. One last thing that the manual doesn't tell: Turn the drive shaft so it aligns with the teeth on the extruder before you snap it in place. Then it doesn't wiggle. There is a menu item for that, but you don't get past that item in the initial set-up.

I have now produced around 30 pieces and everyone came out good. I think that is acceptable for a machine that has so much potential and can be had for a few grands. I use it for experimental instrument casings, fasteners and a soap tray for the bath-room. And more.

Gunnar Englund
www.gke.org
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Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.

My initial prints (not a Replicator, mind you) were slightly oblong. The fix was simple, albeit odd for a new machine... loosen all screws on the rails and let the system "relax" before re-tightening. I did that, and all further prints came out perfect (at least as far as squareness/roundness went).

Dan - Owner
http://www.Hi-TecDesigns.com

Fast and efficient service! I had a problem with the extruder and mentioned it in an e-mail which was read and answered yesterday. This morning I had a new extruder in my mailbox (the physical one). You don't see such responsiveness very often these days.

Gunnar Englund
www.gke.org
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Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.

I have been exploring the MakerBot Replicator for some time now. Two important points, in addition to what is said in the 6 Feb 16 08:21 post:

!. I replaced the cloth and use a string of cotton yarn that I wrap five or six turns around the filament just before it enters the guide tube. If I don't apply oil, I get frequent filament jams. With oil, I have now produced continuously for days - without any filament jam.

2. I have now produced protective covers for 100x160 mm DIN 41617 PCBs (old drive system components that we have rebuilt using Arduino compatible modules). They are large flat pieces and the rafting does not stick to the build plate. Not even after using rubbing alcohol and wiping dry. I then tried to angle the covers 45 degrees and that did the trick. All and everyone came out flat and nice. I had to add a 4 mm chamfer to get a wide enough raft. Without the chamfer, the piece breaks loose from the raft.

Summary: I am quite pleased with the machine now. I was not at all impressed at the beginning, but it really works for small scale production. At least if you can accept some cosmetic surface defects. I even managed to "automate" the production by putting five 100x160 mm covers on the build plate. So the machine works for around 24 hours, after which I collect the result and press "Restart" for another 24 hours. That way, I can produce 25 pieces in one week, without spending more than ten or fifteen minutes with the machine. Slow? Yes, but I'm not in a hurry. And it is a lot faster and cheaper than going to a tool maker or carpenter to have it done.

Gunnar Englund
www.gke.org
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Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.

If you are trying to get it to stick to a glass bed - it won't. Rarely will that work.

I do single-quantity prints at sporadic times, not a 'production' environment. For FFF printers, I find it's best to put something sticky on the glass. Some swear by hair spray, some by glue sticks, some use painters tape. There are also special purpose-made materials. Re-calibrate z-axis to account for the thickness if using a cover material. In the case of painters tape, you may be scraping or sanding off residual tape that sticks to the part.

Here's a help sight:

https://bilbycnc.freshdesk.com/support/home