×
INTELLIGENT WORK FORUMS
FOR ENGINEERING PROFESSIONALS

Log In

Come Join Us!

Are you an
Engineering professional?
Join Eng-Tips Forums!
  • Talk With Other Members
  • Be Notified Of Responses
    To Your Posts
  • Keyword Search
  • One-Click Access To Your
    Favorite Forums
  • Automated Signatures
    On Your Posts
  • Best Of All, It's Free!

*Eng-Tips's functionality depends on members receiving e-mail. By joining you are opting in to receive e-mail.

Posting Guidelines

Promoting, selling, recruiting, coursework and thesis posting is forbidden.

Students Click Here

Help with plastic specs

Help with plastic specs

Help with plastic specs

(OP)
G'day, I am just a tinkerer so please forgive my amateurish questions. I simply don't know where to seek the information that I am chasing. There are no plastic engineers where I live. A while back I experimented with making bow limbs (archery) using pre-tensioned mono-filament fishing line on the back of the limb. Many strands set in epoxy directly on the wood core. It achieved the desired result but the tension was just too great for the adhesion between the epoxy and wood and it delaminated rather quickly.

I have been wanting to have another crack at it but looking to find a sheet source of plastic which has similar qualities to the fishing line. I think I used flourocarbon line but nylon should have similar mechanical properties right?

Is anyone here able to recommend a grade of plastic that is available in sheet form that has a high elongation and modulus of elasticity like fishing line? Another question that might save me a great deal of trial and error.... if the material is stretched to say 10% elongation prior to glueing it up, will it retain elasticity over time or creep and relax?

Cheers!
Replies continue below

Recommended for you

RE: Help with plastic specs

All plastics will creep and loose tension with time. That is why they are called plastics. What you are dong is generally done using glass or carbon fibers. The only reason you need pretensioning is because the plastic filament is not stiff. Glass or carbon are orders of magnitude stiffer so they can store far more energy with less stretch. Also plastics dissipate energy as heat when used as springs.

RE: Help with plastic specs

(OP)
Thanks for your reply. I am quite familiar with the use of carbon and glass fibre but I am trying to find a synthetic sheet that will act similar to sinew when used on the back of a bow. Sinew is applied wet and as it shrinks it pulls a great amount of pre-tension onto the back of the limbs. I understand that it has similar properties to silk and nylon, except that it is much more susceptible to moisture (too susceptible for where I live).

The problem with carbon and glass is that they are too rigid to be used on the back of the short horn bow style bows. They don't allow the short limbs to flex as much as they need to without stacking (requiring an exponential amount of energy to continue flexing).

So,do you think it is possible to mimic sinew with a synthetic material?

RE: Help with plastic specs

Nylon adsorbs a lot of water and polyethylene very little. There are a series of polymer in between so by trying those you could potentially home in on the one with just the right amount of water susceptibility. For example, the standard nylons are 6 and 6,6 but look into nylon 11 and nylon 12 and other higher numbers. Those have intermediate chemical structure and water uptake. Look for example at www.matweb.com

Chris DeArmitt PhD
President - Phantom Plastics LLC

Consulting, ideas and training on plastic materials
www.phantomplastics.com

RE: Help with plastic specs

(OP)
Wow, thanks for the link. That will keep me busy for a while. The material won't be used in or under the water but I live in the tropical north of Australia and humidity is very high for 1/2 the year and very low for the other half. This has a significant affect on the biological sinew fibres and hide glue. Do you think the affects would be noticeable with nylon?

RE: Help with plastic specs

If the monofilament bonded well to the epoxy, but you got an adhesion failure of the epoxy to the wood, maybe you are working on the wrong problem. Have you tried, e.g., roughening the wood surface, or patterning it, say with milled dovetail grooves? Or braiding epoxy- coated monofilament into milled braided grooves in the wood?

AFAIK, hide glue is used for violins precisely because it doesn't bond well, so it's easy to break the joints without splitting the wood. I can't imagine using it in an archery bow.







Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

Red Flag This Post

Please let us know here why this post is inappropriate. Reasons such as off-topic, duplicates, flames, illegal, vulgar, or students posting their homework.

Red Flag Submitted

Thank you for helping keep Eng-Tips Forums free from inappropriate posts.
The Eng-Tips staff will check this out and take appropriate action.

Reply To This Thread

Posting in the Eng-Tips forums is a member-only feature.

Click Here to join Eng-Tips and talk with other members! Already a Member? Login



News


Close Box

Join Eng-Tips® Today!

Join your peers on the Internet's largest technical engineering professional community.
It's easy to join and it's free.

Here's Why Members Love Eng-Tips Forums:

Register now while it's still free!

Already a member? Close this window and log in.

Join Us             Close